Dermatology in Black Skin: Review for Men's Grooming

Table of Contents

The question

Most dermatology research and teaching has focused on lightly pigmented skin. The authors of this 2024 review in the Brazilian journal Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia said that the lack of knowledge about Black skin makes it harder to recognize and manage skin conditions in Black patients, and it can make some doctors wary of more invasive procedures because of fears about scars and pigment changes.

Their goal was to pull together what is known about the natural characteristics of Black skin, and about how common skin diseases show up, are named and are treated differently there. For a men's grooming audience, three parts of the review matter most: razor bumps, hair and scalp care, and sun protection.

The authors also made a point that is easy to miss. There is no single agreed definition of what it means to be Black, and it varies from country to country. A person counted as Black in one place may not be counted that way in another, and that affects how the studies they review should be read.

Who was studied

This is a review, not a new experiment. Nobody was recruited or tested for it. The authors, from Brazil, read the existing literature and summarized the structure of Black skin and hair, the skin diseases that are more common or more specific to it, and several unusual conditions and skin cancers.

Because it draws on many sources, the people behind the numbers vary. Some figures come from clinic and community surveys in Africa, such as a study of skin complaints among people of dark skin in Luanda, Angola. Others come from studies in the United States or other places. The review defines Black skin in terms of the darker phototypes on a standard scale, the ones that rarely burn and tan easily.

The paper is a narrative review. As far as the full text shows, it does not describe a systematic way of searching for or choosing the studies it includes, which is a point to keep in mind when weighing its claims.

What they found

On shaving, the review describes razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae) as a common, long-lasting condition, mostly seen in young Black men, with a prevalence the authors give as between 45 and 83 percent. It explains how the problem starts. Because the hair grows in a curved path, a shaved hair can curl back into the skin or pierce the follicle wall. Poor technique, such as stretching the skin or using blades that tug the hair rather than cutting it, makes this more likely.

The review points to genetics as well. A variant in a keratin gene, known as A12T, raises the chance of razor bumps about six times, and about three in four regular shavers who carry it develop the problem. This lines up with the idea that some men are more prone to razor bumps no matter how carefully they shave.

On hair, the review says Black hair tends to be drier and more fragile. The shaft is thinner, the outer layer is thinner, there is less water and oil, and the hair is less strong when pulled, all of which favors breakage. The authors also warn that ointments, oils and creams used on hair often lead to hair loss and acne along the front hairline. That is a useful flag for men who use heavy styling products near the forehead.

On the sun, the review explains that dark skin has a built-in protection factor of about thirteen, compared with about three for white skin, and that dark skin lets through only a fraction of the UVB rays that pass into lighter skin. The authors still say that Black skin needs sun protection, and they note that many Black people are less likely to use it because they believe it is unnecessary. Finally, the review lists common skin complaints in Luanda among people aged thirteen or over, led by acne, a fungal skin infection known as dermatophytosis and a pigment condition called pityriasis versicolor.

Pseudofolliculitis barbae (razor bumps) is seen almost exclusively in Black men aged 14 to 25, with a prevalence between 45% and 83%.^[1]
Carriers of a keratin gene variant (A12T) have a six-fold greater chance of developing razor bumps, and about 76% of regular shavers who carry it develop pseudofolliculitis barbae.^[1]
Razor bumps can result from incorrect shaving technique such as stretching the skin and using blades that pull the hair instead of cutting it, so the hair tip retracts below the skin surface.^[1]
Black hair has a smaller shaft diameter, thinner cuticle, less water and sebum content and lower tensile strength, all of which favor breakage.^[1]
Ointments, oils and creams used on hair generally cause alopecia and cosmetic acne in the frontal region.^[1]
Melanin gives black skin a natural SPF of 13.4 compared with 3.4 for white skin.^[1]
Dark skin transmits 7.4% of UVB compared with 29.4% in lightly pigmented skin, yet black skin still needs photoprotection.^[1]
In Luanda, Angola, among people aged 13 or over with dark skin (phototypes V-VI), the main skin complaints were acne (23.6%), dermatophytosis (11.0%) and pityriasis versicolor (8.6%).^[1]

How strong is this evidence

A review is a map of other people's work, and its strength depends on the studies it draws from. This one covers a huge range of topics, from skin structure to rare cancers, so it cannot go deep on any single question. Some numbers, such as the range for razor bump prevalence, come from different groups and settings, and a wide range like forty-five to eighty-three percent tells you that estimates vary a lot.

Because the paper is a narrative review, we cannot tell how the authors chose their sources, and they may have leaned toward studies that fit their points. The wording in places is also strong. The review says razor bumps are seen almost exclusively in Black men, which is better read as far more common in this group than as an absolute rule.

The definition problem raised by the authors applies here as well. Studies of Black skin, in the United States, Brazil and several African countries, often mean different things by the term, so combining their results is difficult.

The authors reported that they received no financial support and had no conflicts of interest. The review is a good starting point for understanding why some skin and hair issues look the way they do, but it is not a substitute for a single trial of a treatment.

What it means for you

If you have darker skin and tightly curled hair, this review is a reminder that some common grooming problems have structural causes. Razor bumps are not simply a sign of careless shaving. The shape of the hair and, in some men, an inherited tendency make them more likely. A gentler technique helps, but it may not make the problem disappear, and a dermatologist is a good next step if bumps are painful or leave scars or dark marks.

For hair, the main message is to handle it gently. Dryness and fragility mean that harsh combing and rough handling can lead to breakage. Keep heavy oils and creams away from the hairline if you notice breakouts or thinning there. The review also covers hair loss from tension, such as from tight braids or extensions, so it is worth noticing whether a hairstyle pulls on your scalp.

For the sun, do not assume your skin is safe. The review states that natural protection is real but not complete, and that Black skin still needs sun protection. A sunscreen that blends in without a white cast is easier to use every day. Our guide to sunscreen for dark skin covers options to try.

As with any single study or review, use this as background, not a prescription. If a skin or scalp problem persists, a dermatologist who has experience with skin of color can examine your skin and your history, and that is worth more than any summary.

Related guides

Source

Dermatology in black skin. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 2024

What a 2024 Review of Dermatology in Black Skin Says About Shaving, Hair and Sun