Best Wave Grease and Pomades for 360 Waves in 2026

Last updated: February 2026 by Darius Washington, Black Men’s Grooming Editor

I grew up watching my older cousins argue over wave grease in my uncle’s barbershop in Atlanta. One swore by Murray’s. The other said Murray’s was for old heads and Sportin’ Waves was the only real option. Twenty years later, I still hear this same debate every Saturday morning. The best wave grease depends on your hair texture, your wave stage, and how much time you want to spend on wash day.

I tested eight wave greases, pomades, and creams on 4B and 4C hair over the past three months. This guide breaks down each product by hold level, shine, washability, and which hair type it actually works for. I also cover the difference between grease, pomade, cream, and butter, because the wave community throws these terms around like they are interchangeable. They are not.

If you only read one section, jump to the comparison table for a side-by-side breakdown. If you want the full breakdown on hold levels by hair type and how to prevent buildup, read the whole thing.

Our Top Picks at a Glance

Here is every wave grease and pomade in this roundup, compared by the five things that actually matter: hold, shine, how easy it washes out, which hair type it suits, and price. I go deeper on each product below.

What to Look for in a Wave Grease

Before I get into individual products, you need to know the four things that separate a solid wave grease from one that will clog your scalp and have you looking dusty by Tuesday.

Hold level that matches your texture. This is the biggest factor. Coarse 4C hair fights back against curl pattern training and needs heavy hold. Softer 4A and 3C textures form patterns easier and need less product. Too much hold on fine hair creates a stiff, crunchy look.

Ingredients that do not suffocate your scalp. Heavy petroleum sits on top of the hair like a cap. That is fine in moderation, but layered day after day it blocks follicles. Look for products that blend petroleum with natural oils, or go water-based for the easiest wash-out.

Washability. If a product takes three shampoo sessions to remove, you will skip wash day. Skipping wash day with heavy grease is how you get buildup, flaking, and clogged follicles.

Shine versus sheen. A natural sheen says healthy hair. A greasy, reflective shine says too much product. The best wave greases give you sheen without making your head look wet under fluorescent lights.

Detailed Reviews: 8 Best Wave Greases and Pomades

Sportin’ Waves Maximum Hold Pomade

Hold: Heavy | Shine: High | Washability: Moderate | Price: $3-5

Sportin’ Waves has been in barbershops longer than most of us have been alive. The gold tin is iconic for a reason. I have used it on and off since high school. One application after a morning brush session keeps my 4C waves laid until the next morning. The shine is on the higher side, so if you prefer a matte look, this is not it. But for hold and compression, it delivers.

The downside is buildup. Use this daily without a proper wash schedule and you will see flaking within a week. I use Sportin’ Waves three to four times per week and hit it with a clarifying shampoo every five days.

Best for: 4B and 4C wavers who want reliable heavy hold at a budget price. A barbershop classic that earned its reputation.

Skip if: You have softer 4A hair or hate dealing with product buildup on wash day.

Murray’s Superior Hair Dressing Pomade

Hold: Maximum | Shine: Very High | Washability: Difficult | Price: $3-5

Murray’s is the heavyweight champion of wave grease. Around since 1925, barely changed, because it did not need to. The hold is the strongest in this entire roundup. When I say maximum, I mean your waves are not moving for 24 hours. I lean on Murray’s during weeks four through six of a wolfing cycle when my 4C hair starts doing its own thing.

The trade-off is significant. Murray’s is notoriously difficult to wash out. You need a pre-wash with olive oil or coconut oil, then a clarifying shampoo, then maybe a second pass. My barber in Atlanta used to say, “Murray’s don’t come out. It just decides to leave when it’s ready.” He was not entirely wrong.

Best for: 4C wavers during wolfing periods when you need absolute maximum hold. Serious wavers who commit to a proper wash routine.

Skip if: You want something you can wash out on a quick rinse. If you are lazy about wash day, Murray’s will punish you with buildup.

WaveBuilder Natural Wave Pomade

Hold: Medium | Shine: Low-Medium | Washability: Easy | Price: $5-8

WaveBuilder is the brand most beginners start with, and that is not a bad move. Their Natural Wave Pomade uses coconut oil and shea butter for medium hold that trains your pattern without cementing your hair in place. The shine is subtle, closer to a natural sheen than the wet look from Sportin’ Waves or Murray’s. For guys in professional settings who do not want to walk into the office looking oiled up, this is a smart choice.

Your scalp breathes easier with WaveBuilder. I have never dealt with buildup issues, even with daily application. It washes out in a single shampoo pass, making it the most wash-day-friendly product in this guide.

Best for: 4A and 4B hair types. Beginners building their first wave pattern. Guys who want a clean, natural look with medium hold.

Skip if: You have coarse 4C hair that needs heavy hold to stay trained. WaveBuilder alone might not lock your pattern during wolfing.

Cold Label Wave Natural Pomade

Hold: Medium-Heavy | Shine: Medium | Washability: Moderate | Price: $8-12

Cold Label is newer in the wave game but has built a serious following for good reason. Their natural pomade lands right in the sweet spot between lightweight pomades and heavy petroleum greases. The formula uses beeswax for hold and coconut and tea tree oils for moisture, delivering medium-heavy hold that trains 4B and 4C hair without extreme buildup.

I have been rotating Cold Label into my weekly routine for about six months. The consistency is thicker than WaveBuilder but thinner than Sportin’ Waves, and it spreads evenly without clumping. I notice less flaking compared to petroleum-based options, even when I push wash day back an extra day.

Best for: 4B and 4C wavers who want strong hold from natural ingredients. The best middle ground between performance and hair health.

Skip if: You are on a tight budget. At $8 to $12, Cold Label costs two to three times more than Sportin’ Waves or Murray’s.

360 Style Wave Control Pomade

Hold: Medium | Shine: Medium | Washability: Easy | Price: $5-7

360 Style does not get as much attention as it deserves. The Wave Control Pomade offers medium hold with a clean, non-greasy finish. Water-based, so it rinses out easily and does not leave petroleum residue on your pillowcase or durag.

This works best for maintaining an established wave pattern rather than building one from scratch. If you already have your waves trained and need daily product to keep them sharp, this delivers. The hold is not strong enough for wolfing on 4C hair, but for 4A and 4B textures, it provides solid all-day definition. The water-based formula also layers well over a leave-in conditioner without feeling heavy.

Best for: 4A and 4B wavers maintaining an established pattern. Daily use without buildup concerns.

Skip if: You are in the early stages of training waves on thick 4C hair. You will need more hold.

Suavecito Original Pomade

Hold: Medium | Shine: Medium | Washability: Very Easy | Price: $12-15

Suavecito is not marketed as a wave product. It started in the Latino barbershop community and built its name on slickbacks and pompadours. But a lot of wavers with 3C and 4A textures swear by it, and I understand why. The water-based formula provides clean hold that washes out with a single rinse. No pre-wash oil treatment. No double shampoo. Just water.

I tested Suavecito on my 4C hair and it was not enough hold. But I have recommended it to guys in the shop with 3C and looser 4A curls, and they get solid wave definition without any heaviness. If you have softer hair that forms patterns naturally, Suavecito gives you control without the petroleum baggage. Check our curly hair fade guide if you are working with that texture.

Best for: 3C and 4A textures that form waves easily. Guys who prioritize easy wash-out over maximum hold.

Skip if: You have 4B or 4C hair. The hold is too light for tighter coil patterns.

SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie

Hold: Light | Shine: Low | Washability: Very Easy | Price: $10-13

This is not a pomade or a grease. It is a curl cream. I am including it because it fills a gap traditional wave products ignore: moisture. SheaMoisture’s Smoothie uses coconut oil, hibiscus flower extract, and shea butter to hydrate textured hair. The hold is light, so it will not train waves on its own. But used underneath a pomade or on rest days, it keeps your hair healthy between intense product days.

I use SheaMoisture on wash days as a base before my main wave pomade. The moisture keeps my 4C hair soft and reduces breakage from brushing. Too many wavers focus only on hold and forget that dry, brittle hair does not form clean patterns no matter how much grease you throw on it. SheaMoisture is a Black-owned brand formulated with 4B and 4C hair in mind.

Best for: A moisture base under your main wave pomade. Rest days and wash days. Anyone dealing with dryness and breakage.

Skip if: You need hold. This is a moisture product, not a styling product.

Duke Grease

Hold: Heavy | Shine: High | Washability: Moderate | Price: $3-5

Duke is the blue tin that has been sitting in medicine cabinets and barbershop drawers for generations. Performance is comparable to Sportin’ Waves, but the consistency is slightly softer straight out of the tin. That means easier spreading and less tugging through short, tightly coiled 4C hair.

My uncle used Duke every day for 30 years and never switched. His waves were always clean. When I asked him why he never tried anything else, he said, “Why would I fix something that ain’t broke?” That is the Duke philosophy. Not innovative. No fancy natural ingredients. Just works.

Best for: 4B and 4C hair that needs reliable heavy hold. Guys who want a classic formula without paying premium prices.

Skip if: You are trying to minimize petroleum products in your routine, or you struggle with scalp buildup.

Grease vs. Pomade vs. Cream vs. Butter: What Is the Difference?

The wave community uses “grease” and “pomade” like they mean the same thing. They do not. Here is the breakdown.

Traditional wave grease is petroleum-based with thick, heavy consistency. It sits on top of the hair shaft and locks it in position. Think Murray’s, Duke, and Sportin’ Waves. Maximum hold, high shine, hardest to wash out. Best during wolfing when your 4C hair refuses to stay trained.

Water-based pomade uses water instead of petroleum. Lighter hold, cleaner feel, washes out easily. WaveBuilder, 360 Style, and Suavecito fall here. Best for maintaining an established wave pattern on 4A or 4B hair.

Curl cream is moisture-focused with minimal hold. SheaMoisture Smoothie is the prime example. Does not train wave patterns on its own but is essential for hair health. Use on wash days and rest days as a base under your main pomade.

Hair butter is a thick moisturizer made from shea, mango, or cocoa butter blends. Heavier than cream, less hold than grease. Seals in moisture and provides light pattern control. Use when your scalp is dry or as a nighttime treatment before your durag.

Most serious wavers use at least two of these product types. A pomade or grease for brush sessions, plus a cream or butter for moisture. Trying to do both jobs with one product usually means mediocre hold and mediocre moisture.

How to Apply Wave Grease Properly

The product is only half the equation. I have watched guys in the shop use top-tier products with terrible technique and wonder why their waves look flat. Here is the five-step method I use and teach.

Step 1: Start with clean or slightly damp hair. If you are applying over old product, you are piling buildup on top of buildup. On non-wash days, at least rinse with warm water and pat dry before applying fresh product.

Step 2: Use a dime-sized amount. Seriously, a dime. Rub it between your palms until it warms up and spreads thin. During wolfing with longer hair, go up to a nickel. More product does not mean more waves.

Step 3: Apply from the crown outward. Start at the center point of your wave pattern and spread toward your hairline, temples, and nape. Follow the natural direction of your pattern as you work the product through.

Step 4: Brush immediately. Grab your wave brush and brush with the grain of your wave pattern right after applying product. Aim for 10 to 15 minutes of focused brushing per session.

Step 5: Durag up. Put on your durag immediately after brushing. Keep it on at least 30 minutes. For overnight sessions, keep it on all night. Product and compression work together to train your pattern.

Hold Levels by Hair Texture: What Your Hair Actually Needs

If you do not match the hold level to your hair texture, you will either under-hold (waves fall flat) or over-hold (crunchy buildup). Here is the breakdown by type.

4C hair (tight coils, least defined): The most resistant to wave training. You need medium-heavy to heavy hold. Go with Murray’s Superior (wolfing only), Sportin’ Waves, Duke Grease, or Cold Label Natural. Alternate between hold days and moisture days because 4C hair dries out fast, and dry hair breaks instead of waving.

4B hair (Z-pattern coils, some definition): You have the most options. Medium to medium-heavy hold works best. Start with WaveBuilder Natural or 360 Style Wave Control for daily maintenance and move up to Sportin’ Waves or Cold Label during wolfing.

4A hair (defined S-pattern coils): Your hair wants to form patterns. It just needs guidance. Light to medium hold is all you need. WaveBuilder Natural, 360 Style, or Suavecito Original will do the job. Focus on technique over product.

3C hair (loose curls): At the edge of wave territory. Your curls form deep wave patterns with minimal product. You do not need grease. A water-based pomade like Suavecito or a curl cream like SheaMoisture Smoothie is enough. Less is more.

How to Avoid Buildup and Product Residue

Buildup is the silent wave killer. You apply product daily, brush diligently, wear your durag, and still wonder why your waves look dull and your scalp is flaking. Here is how to prevent it.

Wash on a schedule. Petroleum-based products (Murray’s, Sportin’ Waves, Duke) require a clarifying shampoo every five to seven days. Water-based pomades let you stretch to seven to 10 days. Do not go longer than 10 days no matter what you use.

Never layer over old product. Adding fresh grease on top of yesterday’s grease is the number one mistake I see. By Friday you have five layers, a clogged scalp, and zero wave definition. If you need a mid-week refresh, rinse with warm water and pat dry before applying fresh product.

Use a dime-sized amount. If you are scooping a tablespoon every morning, you are creating buildup no matter how often you wash. More product does not mean more waves.

Rotate product types. Heavy grease for wolfing sessions, lighter water-based pomade on regular days, moisture cream for rest days. I run a three-day rotation: heavy pomade, light pomade, moisture cream. Repeat. Your scalp gets a break without sacrificing daily pattern maintenance.

Warning signs: White flakes on your durag. Dull, matte appearance instead of healthy sheen. Hair feels stiff and crunchy. Oily scalp with a slight odor. If you notice these, do a deep clarifying wash and consider a pre-wash coconut oil treatment to break down stubborn petroleum residue.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between wave grease and wave pomade?

Traditional wave grease is petroleum-based, thicker, and provides heavy hold with high shine. It sits on top of the hair and locks curl patterns in place, but it can build up and clog pores over time. Water-based wave pomade is lighter, washes out easier, and still provides medium to strong hold without the waxy residue. For most wavers, a water-based pomade gives you the best balance of hold and hair health. Save the heavy grease for wolfing periods when you need maximum pattern control.

How much wave grease should I use per session?

Start with a dime-sized amount for short to medium hair. Rub it between your palms until it warms up and spreads thin, then work it through your hair from the crown outward. You can always add more, but you cannot remove excess without washing. If your hair looks shiny and wet after application, you used too much. The goal is even distribution with a natural sheen, not a greasy helmet.

Can wave grease cause hair loss or thinning?

Wave grease itself does not cause hair loss, but heavy petroleum-based products can clog hair follicles and suffocate the scalp if you never wash them out properly. This leads to folliculitis, which is inflammation of the hair follicles, and can contribute to thinning over time. The fix is simple: use a clarifying shampoo once a week, avoid layering product on top of old product, and give your scalp a day off between heavy applications. If you notice thinning, switch to a lighter water-based pomade and see a dermatologist experienced with hair loss in Black men.

How often should I reapply wave grease during the week?

For most wavers, applying product once per day after your main brush session is enough. If you wash your hair mid-week, reapply after the wash-and-style. During wolfing periods when your hair is longer and harder to control, you might need a light touch-up in the morning before your durag comes off. Never layer fresh product on top of yesterday’s product without at least rinsing your hair first. Buildup is the number one wave killer.

What is the best wave grease for coarse 4C hair?

Coarse 4C hair needs a medium to heavy hold product to keep the curl pattern trained. Murray’s Superior provides the heaviest hold and works well during wolfing, but it is hard to wash out. For daily use on 4C hair, I recommend Sportin’ Waves Maximum Hold or Cold Label Wave Natural Pomade. Both give strong hold without the extreme buildup of traditional petroleum grease. Pair any of these with consistent brushing and a quality durag, because no product replaces technique.

The Bottom Line

Here is what this all comes down to:

• For 4C hair during wolfing: Murray’s Superior or Sportin’ Waves deliver the heavy hold you need. Accept the wash day commitment.
• For daily 4B/4C maintenance: Cold Label Wave Natural gives you strong hold from natural ingredients without extreme buildup.
• For 4A and softer textures: WaveBuilder Natural or 360 Style Wave Control provide enough hold with easy wash-out.
• For moisture on any texture: SheaMoisture Smoothie as a base layer keeps your hair healthy under whatever pomade you choose.
• For the budget-conscious: Sportin’ Waves and Duke both cost under $5 and have been getting the job done for decades.

The best wave grease is the one that matches your hair texture, your wave stage, and your willingness to deal with wash day. Match the hold level to your hair type, apply the right amount, brush with intention, and keep your scalp clean. That is the system.

Ready to build your full wave toolkit? Check out our complete guide to getting 360 waves for the step-by-step system, our best wave brush roundup for the other half of the equation, and the best clippers for Black men to keep your cut tight between sessions.