I spent two years with starter locs. The first six months were a disaster because I was using the wrong product. A thick wax that promised “instant lock” gave me buildup so bad my loctician had to do a deep cleanse that set my progress back weeks. That experience taught me something every loc wearer eventually learns: the best locking gel for dreads is the one that holds without leaving anything behind. I have tested, borrowed, and sat through honest conversations about every major locking gel on the market. This guide breaks down the top picks for 2026, explains why gel beats wax for most loc stages, and gives you a comparison table so you can stop guessing and start locking.
If you only read one section, skip to the comparison table for hold levels, residue ratings, and price at a glance.
Our Top Picks at a Glance
| Product | Best For | Hold Level | Residue Rating | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jamaican Mango & Lime Locking Gel | Best Overall | Strong (9/10) | Low | $5-8 |
| Murray’s Gel-Loc Lock | Budget Pick | Strong (8/10) | Low-Medium | $4-6 |
| Organic Root Stimulator Lock & Twist Gel | Starter Locs | Medium (7/10) | Very Low | $5-7 |
| Dr. Locs Jinan Gel | Clean Ingredients | Medium (7/10) | Very Low | $12-16 |
| Dollylocks Tightening Gel | All-Natural | Medium-Strong (8/10) | Very Low | $14-18 |
| Knotty Boy LockSteady Tropical Tightening Gel | Retwist Sessions | Strong (8/10) | Low | $10-14 |
| Carol’s Daughter Loc Butter | Moisture + Hold | Light-Medium (5/10) | Very Low | $10-13 |
| Taliah Waajid Lock It Up | 4C Starter Locs | Strong (9/10) | Low | $7-10 |
| African Essence Control Wig Loc & Twist Gel | Maximum Hold | Extra Strong (10/10) | Medium | $5-8 |
What to Look for in a Locking Gel
Not every gel is built for locs. The shelves at your local BSS are packed with products that say “for locs” on the label but contain ingredients that will sabotage your loc journey. Here is what actually matters when choosing a locking gel.
Residue: The Number One Enemy
Residue is the single biggest issue in loc care. When product builds up inside a loc, it attracts lint, creates a white film, traps moisture, and can eventually lead to mildew if the loc does not dry properly. I have seen locs that looked grey from buildup, and the owner thought it was lint. It was product residue baked in over months.
The worst offenders are beeswax-based products. Beeswax does not dissolve in water. Once it is inside your loc, it stays there unless you do a serious apple cider vinegar soak or a professional deep cleanse. Gels, by contrast, are water-soluble. They wash out. That is why gel is almost always the better choice for locs at any stage.
When evaluating a locking gel, look for these signs of low residue:
- Water as the first ingredient. This means the product is water-based and will rinse clean.
- No beeswax, petroleum, or mineral oil. These coat the hair and seal in moisture poorly.
- Clear or translucent formula. Opaque white gels tend to leave visible residue on dark hair.
- Flexible hold. A gel that dries rock-hard is more likely to flake.
Hold Strength by Loc Stage
Your loc stage determines how much hold you need. Here is the breakdown:
| Loc Stage | Timeline | Hold Needed | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Starter / Baby Locs | 0-6 months | Medium to Strong | Hair has not locked yet. Coils unravel easily, especially after washing. You need a gel that grips without suffocating the hair. |
| Budding Locs | 6-12 months | Medium | Hair is beginning to mat and tangle internally. Less product needed. Over-gelling can slow the natural matting process. |
| Teen Locs | 1-2 years | Light to Medium | Locs are forming but still have some frizz and loose hairs. A light gel on retwist days is enough. |
| Mature Locs | 2+ years | Light or None | Locs are fully locked. Product is optional. Some people use a light gel on retwist day for a polished look, others skip it entirely. |
This is important: more product is not better. With starter locs, I see people glob on thick gel because they are afraid of unraveling. That excess product just sits inside the loc and causes problems three months later. A thin, even coat is all you need. If you are starting your loc journey, less is genuinely more.
Gel vs. Wax vs. Cream: Which One Actually Works
This is the debate that comes up in every loc forum, every barbershop conversation, and every DM I get about loc care. Let me break it down plainly.
Gel is water-based, washes out, and provides hold without long-term buildup. It is the safest choice for most people at most stages. The only downside is that some gels dry with a slight crunch that softens after a day or two.
Wax provides strong hold and a polished look, but it does not dissolve in water. Beeswax-based products like the original Murray’s or Dax sit inside locs permanently. Locticians across the country will tell you the same thing: wax is the number one cause of buildup in locs they see professionally. I stopped recommending wax years ago for anything other than very short-term cosmetic use on mature locs.
Cream (loc butter, loc cream) provides moisture and light hold. Products like Carol’s Daughter Loc Butter are excellent for moisturizing dry locs and giving a polished look on retwist day, but they do not have the grip to hold starter locs in place. Creams are best as a complement to gel, not a replacement.
My recommendation: gel for hold, cream or oil for moisture, never wax. If you want to understand more about how to properly cleanse your locs and remove product buildup, that guide covers the full process.
Detailed Reviews
1. Jamaican Mango & Lime Locking Gel (Best Overall)
This is the loc gel you see in every Black barbershop and BSS in America for a reason. Jamaican Mango & Lime has been a staple in Caribbean and African American loc culture for over a decade. The Resistant Formula version, which comes in the green jar, is the one I recommend for 4B and 4C hair textures.
What I like: The hold is serious. When I was in the starter loc phase with 4C hair, this gel kept my coils in place between retwists without unraveling at the ends. It dries without flaking, which is the real test. A lot of strong-hold gels crack and leave white specks on your scalp and shoulders. Jamaican Mango & Lime does not. The price is also hard to beat. You are getting professional-grade hold for under $8.
What to watch out for: Use a small amount. Seriously. A dime-sized portion can do 8-10 locs depending on thickness. Overapplication leads to crunchiness that takes a full day to relax. The Regular Formula (clear jar) is lighter, better suited for looser curl patterns or budding locs that do not need as much grip.
Works for: 4B/4C starter locs, comb coils, two-strand twist starters, retwist sessions on locs of any stage.
Skip if: You have mature locs and want a soft, natural feel. This gel holds, and mature locs do not need that level of control.
Hold: 9/10 | Residue: Low | Price: $5-8
2. Murray’s Gel-Loc Lock (Budget Pick)
Murray’s has been in the Black hair care game since 1925. Their original pomade is legendary in wave culture, but their Gel-Loc Lock formula is purpose-built for locs. It is one of the few Murray’s products I recommend for locs because unlike their wax-based pomades, this is a water-soluble gel.
What I like: Strong hold at an unbeatable price. You can usually find a jar for under $5 at Walmart or your local BSS. The formula grips tight for retwists and does not leave the heavy, waxy residue their pomade is known for. For anyone on a budget who needs a reliable hold product, this is it.
What to watch out for: The residue situation is “low-medium” rather than “low.” After two or three applications without washing, you may notice slight buildup near the base of your locs. I recommend pairing this with a clarifying shampoo for textured hair every two to three washes to keep things clean.
Works for: Starter locs, retwists on a tight budget, 4B/4C textures that need serious grip.
Skip if: You are sensitive to any buildup, or you go more than two weeks between washes.
Hold: 8/10 | Residue: Low-Medium | Price: $4-6
3. Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) Lock & Twist Gel (Best for Starter Locs)
ORS built their reputation on moisture and gentle formulas for textured hair. Their Lock & Twist Gel follows that philosophy. This is the gel I recommend most often for people in the first six months of their loc journey, specifically because it balances hold with moisture retention.
What I like: The gel has a medium hold that keeps coils in place without making them stiff. Starter locs need some movement to begin the natural matting process. A gel that locks them rigid actually slows down the locking process. ORS gets this balance right. The formula also has added olive oil and coconut oil, which helps with the dryness that plagues starter locs, especially on 4C hair that already struggles with moisture retention.
What to watch out for: If you have very coarse 4C hair and need maximum grip for comb coils, this might not hold tight enough on its own. Pair it with a satin scarf or durag overnight and it performs much better.
Works for: Starter locs (0-6 months), two-strand twist starters, anyone transitioning from loose natural to locs.
Skip if: You need extra-strong hold for very thick 4C hair or you are doing interlocking (where grip is less important).
Hold: 7/10 | Residue: Very Low | Price: $5-7
4. Dr. Locs Jinan Gel (Best Clean Ingredients)
Dr. Locs is a small, independent brand run by someone who actually has locs and a background in trichology. That matters. The Jinan Gel is their flagship product, and it is formulated with rose water, aloe vera, and vegetable glycerin. No petrochemicals. No synthetic fragrances. No silicones.
What I like: This is the cleanest formula on this list. If you care about what goes on your scalp, and you should, Dr. Locs is the answer. The gel provides a medium hold with zero residue. I have used it on teen locs and the results are a soft, defined retwist that does not feel crunchy. The rose water base also adds a light, natural scent that fades within a day.
What to watch out for: The price. At $12-16 per bottle, it is more expensive than Jamaican Mango & Lime or Murray’s. The bottle is also smaller, so you go through it faster if you have thick, dense locs. For someone with fine to medium density locs, one bottle lasts about 6-8 retwists.
Works for: Teen locs, mature locs on retwist day, anyone with a sensitive scalp or ingredient preferences.
Skip if: You need maximum hold for comb coils on 4C hair. This is a medium-hold product.
Hold: 7/10 | Residue: Very Low | Price: $12-16
5. Dollylocks Tightening Gel (Best All-Natural)
Dollylocks markets themselves as a natural, organic loc care brand. Their Tightening Gel uses aloe, tea tree, and coconut oil as the base. No petroleum, no beeswax, no sulfates. The formula is also vegan.
What I like: The tea tree oil does double duty. It provides a cooling sensation on the scalp, which feels great after a long retwist session, and it has natural antifungal properties that help prevent the mildew issues some people deal with during humid months. The hold is surprisingly strong for a natural gel. I would put it at an 8/10, comparable to Jamaican Mango & Lime with significantly cleaner ingredients.
What to watch out for: This is the most expensive gel on the list at $14-18 per bottle. If you are retwisting every two to four weeks with thick locs, you are going through a bottle a month. It is also harder to find in stores. You will likely need to order it online.
Works for: All loc stages, people who prioritize natural ingredients, humid climates where mildew prevention matters.
Skip if: Budget is a concern. You can get similar hold for a third of the price.
Hold: 8/10 | Residue: Very Low | Price: $14-18
6. Knotty Boy LockSteady Tropical Tightening Gel (Best for Retwists)
Knotty Boy has been in the loc care space for years, and their LockSteady gel is specifically formulated for retwist sessions. The tropical version has a coconut and lime scent that is subtle and pleasant without being overwhelming.
What I like: This gel was designed for retwists, and it shows. The formula provides strong hold right out of the jar but dries flexible, which is exactly what you want after a retwist. Hard-drying gels make locs feel stiff for the first two days after a retwist. LockSteady avoids that. The formula rinses clean, and I noticed no residue even after going three weeks between washes.
What to watch out for: Availability can be hit or miss depending on your location. It is a Canadian brand, and some retailers charge a premium for shipping. Check online retailers for the best pricing.
Works for: Retwist sessions at any loc stage, locs that need hold plus flexibility, anyone who dislikes the crunchy feel of strong gels.
Skip if: You want a product you can buy at your local BSS tomorrow. This one usually requires an online order.
Hold: 8/10 | Residue: Low | Price: $10-14
7. Carol’s Daughter Loc Butter (Best for Moisture + Hold)
Carol’s Daughter is a Black-owned legacy brand founded by Lisa Price in Brooklyn. Their Loc Butter is technically a cream, not a gel, but I include it here because so many people use it as their primary retwist product. It is formulated with mango butter and shea butter for deep moisture.
What I like: If your locs are dry, and most 4C locs are at some point, this product addresses the root cause while giving you a light hold. The shea and mango butters absorb into the hair shaft rather than sitting on top. After application, your locs feel soft, hydrated, and polished. It also smells incredible.
What to watch out for: The hold is light. This is a 5/10 on the hold scale. It will not keep starter locs in place, and it will not give you a tight retwist on its own. I recommend using it as a finishing product after applying a stronger gel for the hold, then sealing with a small amount of Loc Butter for moisture and shine.
Works for: Dry mature locs, as a finishing product over gel, anyone whose locs need hydration more than hold.
Skip if: You have starter locs and need actual grip. This will not hold your coils.
Hold: 5/10 | Residue: Very Low | Price: $10-13
8. Taliah Waajid Lock It Up (Best for 4C Starter Locs)
Taliah Waajid is another name you should know in Black hair care. She has been formulating products for textured hair since the 1990s, and her Lock It Up gel is specifically designed for the tightest curl patterns. If you have 4C hair and you are starting locs, this is the gel I would point you to before anything else on this list.
What I like: The hold matches Jamaican Mango & Lime at a 9/10, but the formula was designed with 4C texture in mind from the start. It grips coils tight enough that they survive sleeping, sweating, and even light rain without unraveling. The formula contains shea butter and vitamin E, which adds moisture to a strong-hold product. That combination is rare.
What to watch out for: Like any strong-hold gel, overapplication creates crunchiness. Use a small amount and distribute evenly. Some users report a slight white residue if they apply too much on very dark hair. The key is less product, more precision.
Works for: 4C starter locs, comb coils on extremely tight curl patterns, retwists on thick, dense locs.
Skip if: You have looser curl patterns (4A or below). This gel is formulated for the tightest textures.
Hold: 9/10 | Residue: Low | Price: $7-10
9. African Essence Control Wig Loc & Twist Gel (Maximum Hold)
This one flies under the radar, but anyone who has been in the loc community for a while knows about African Essence. Their Loc & Twist Gel provides the strongest hold of any product on this list. A 10/10. It is the product locticians reach for when they need a retwist to last six weeks on thick, stubborn hair.
What I like: Nothing holds tighter. If you have tried every gel and your coils still unravel, African Essence will end that problem. The formula dries fast and holds its shape through workouts, swimming, and even humid Atlanta summers where every other gel I have tried starts to slip.
What to watch out for: The residue is the highest on this list (medium). Because the hold is so strong, the formula is thicker and leaves more behind. You need a good clarifying wash every two weeks if you use this regularly. This is not a daily-use product. It is a retwist-day product for people who need maximum grip.
Works for: The most stubborn unraveling issues, very thick 4C starter locs, professional loctician use.
Skip if: You are sensitive to buildup, or you can get adequate hold from a cleaner formula.
Hold: 10/10 | Residue: Medium | Price: $5-8
How to Apply Locking Gel the Right Way
Application technique matters as much as the product itself. I have watched people apply gel with their whole palm, saturating the loc from root to tip. That is how you get buildup. Here is the method I learned from my loctician in Atlanta, and it has worked consistently across every gel I have tested.
Step-by-Step Application for Retwists
- Start with clean, damp hair. Locking gel bonds better to damp hair than dry hair. Wash your locs with a residue-free shampoo, then towel dry until they are damp but not dripping. If you need a recommendation, check our list of the best shampoos for Black men, several of which work well on locs.
- Scoop a small amount. Dime-sized for thin to medium locs. Nickel-sized for thick, dense locs. That is it. You can always add more, but you cannot remove excess once it dries inside a loc.
- Warm it between your fingertips. Rub the gel between your index finger and thumb for about five seconds. This thins the product and makes it easier to distribute evenly.
- Apply to the new growth only. The new growth at the base of your loc is the only section that needs product. The rest of the loc has already locked. Applying gel to the full length of a loc is the number one cause of unnecessary buildup.
- Palm-roll or interlock. After applying gel to the new growth, palm-roll the loc between your palms to smooth it down and encourage the new growth to twist with the existing loc. If you use the interlocking method, apply gel before pulling the loc through.
- Let it dry completely. Do not cover your locs with a durag or scarf while the gel is still wet. This traps moisture and can lead to mildew, especially with thick locs that take hours to dry. If you need to go to bed before they dry, sit under a hooded dryer for 30-45 minutes first.
How Much Product Per Retwist Session
A complete retwist on a full head of medium-density locs (60-80 locs) should use no more than one to two tablespoons of gel total. If you are using more than that, you are overapplying. With thick, dense locs (100+), you might go up to three tablespoons, but that is the ceiling.
Starter Locs vs. Mature Locs: Different Needs, Different Products
One of the mistakes I see constantly is people using the same product from day one through year five. Your locs change, and your product should change with them.
Starter Locs (0-12 Months)
During this phase, your hair is not locked. It is coiled, twisted, or braided into position, and it wants to unravel. This is the phase where product choice matters most.
What you need:
- A medium-to-strong hold gel that washes out cleanly
- A residue-free shampoo for regular washing (every 1-2 weeks)
- Patience. Lots of it.
My picks for this stage: Taliah Waajid Lock It Up for 4C hair, ORS Lock & Twist for 4A-4B hair, or Jamaican Mango & Lime as an all-around choice.
One thing nobody tells you: starter locs look messy. That is normal. Your locs are supposed to frizz, puff, and look unkempt for the first several months. No amount of gel will make starter locs look like mature locs. If someone tries to sell you a product that promises polished locs in week one, keep walking.
Mature Locs (2+ Years)
Once your locs are fully locked, the game changes entirely. Mature locs hold themselves. The hair inside each loc is permanently matted, and the structure is self-sustaining. At this stage, product is about maintenance and aesthetics, not structural hold.
What you need:
- A light gel or cream for retwist-day polish
- A good moisturizer for hydration (locs get dry, especially in winter)
- A light oil to seal moisture (jojoba or argan work well)
My picks for this stage: Dr. Locs Jinan Gel for a clean, light retwist, or Carol’s Daughter Loc Butter for moisture plus a polished look.
Some people with mature locs stop using product entirely and just palm-roll after washing. That is a perfectly valid approach. If your locs are locked and you are happy with how they look, you do not need gel.
The Residue Problem: Why It Matters More Than You Think
I have to dedicate a full section to this because residue ruins more locs than anything else. Here is what happens when product accumulates inside your locs over time:
- Lint sticks to it. That white fuzz in your locs? It is attracted to product residue. Clean locs repel lint. Product-heavy locs collect it like a magnet.
- Your locs stop drying. Product residue fills the internal spaces of the loc, blocking airflow. When locs do not dry completely after washing, you get a musty smell. In severe cases, mildew.
- Scalp irritation. Product that sits on the scalp clogs pores and can cause itching, flaking, and even folliculitis (infected hair follicles).
- The “dreaded” ACV soak. When buildup gets bad enough, the only solution is soaking your locs in a mixture of apple cider vinegar and baking soda. You will be amazed and horrified at what comes out of your locs. Brown water that looks like tea. That is months of dissolved product.
Every product on my recommended list was evaluated for residue. The ones I flagged as “very low” (ORS, Dr. Locs, Dollylocks, Carol’s Daughter) can be used regularly without worrying about buildup. The ones flagged “low” (Jamaican Mango & Lime, Knotty Boy, Taliah Waajid) are clean enough for regular use as long as you are washing your locs properly every one to two weeks. The one flagged “medium” (African Essence) should only be used for retwist days and paired with clarifying washes.
Full Comparison Table
| Product | Hold (1-10) | Residue | Best Loc Stage | Key Ingredients | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jamaican Mango & Lime | 9 | Low | Starter & Budding | Mango extract, lime oil | $5-8 |
| Murray’s Gel-Loc Lock | 8 | Low-Med | Starter & Budding | Water-based polymer | $4-6 |
| ORS Lock & Twist | 7 | Very Low | Starter (4A-4B) | Olive oil, coconut oil | $5-7 |
| Dr. Locs Jinan Gel | 7 | Very Low | Teen & Mature | Rose water, aloe, glycerin | $12-16 |
| Dollylocks Tightening | 8 | Very Low | All Stages | Aloe, tea tree, coconut | $14-18 |
| Knotty Boy LockSteady | 8 | Low | Retwist (All Stages) | Coconut, lime, plant extracts | $10-14 |
| Carol’s Daughter Loc Butter | 5 | Very Low | Mature (Moisture) | Mango butter, shea butter | $10-13 |
| Taliah Waajid Lock It Up | 9 | Low | Starter (4C) | Shea butter, vitamin E | $7-10 |
| African Essence Loc & Twist | 10 | Medium | Retwist (Max Hold) | Polymer blend | $5-8 |
Budget Breakdown: Good, Better, Best
Loc care does not have to be expensive. Here is how I would build a product routine at three budget levels.
Budget Tier (Under $15/month)
Gel: Murray’s Gel-Loc Lock ($4-6)
Shampoo: A residue-free shampoo from the BSS ($5-8)
Oil: Pure jojoba oil from the drugstore ($5-7)
This setup gets the job done. Murray’s holds your retwists, a clean shampoo prevents buildup, and jojoba oil keeps things moisturized between washes. Total monthly cost: around $10-15 once you factor in product lasting multiple sessions.
Mid-Range Tier ($20-35/month)
Gel: Jamaican Mango & Lime Locking Gel ($5-8)
Moisture cream: Carol’s Daughter Loc Butter ($10-13)
Shampoo: A quality residue-free loc shampoo ($8-12)
Oil: Argan or jojoba oil ($8-10)
This is the sweet spot for most people. You get strong hold, dedicated moisture, and clean scalp care. A jar of Jamaican Mango & Lime lasts 6-8 retwists, and the Loc Butter lasts even longer.
Premium Tier ($40-60/month)
Gel: Dollylocks Tightening Gel ($14-18)
Moisture: Dr. Locs Jinan Gel (use as a light hold on non-retwist days) ($12-16)
Shampoo: Dr. Locs cleansing shampoo ($10-14)
Oil: Organic jojoba or argan blend ($10-15)
If you want the cleanest ingredients and the best formulas, this is it. Everything is natural, residue-free, and designed specifically for locs. Worth it if your budget allows, but the mid-range tier is perfectly fine for healthy locs.
Common Mistakes with Locking Gels
I have made most of these mistakes myself. Sharing them so you do not have to.
1. Using Beeswax Instead of Gel
I covered this above, but it deserves repeating. Beeswax does not dissolve in water. It accumulates inside your locs permanently. Every loctician I have spoken to has horror stories about clients who used beeswax for years and needed months of deep cleaning to remove the buildup. Gel washes out. Wax does not. Choose gel.
2. Applying Gel to the Entire Loc
Only the new growth needs product. The body and ends of your loc are already locked. Applying gel from root to tip is a waste of product and a direct path to residue buildup. Focus on the first inch of new growth at the base.
3. Over-Gelling Out of Fear
Starter locs unravel. That is part of the process. Dumping extra gel on your coils because you are afraid of losing them actually causes more harm than good. The excess product accumulates, and your locs become stiff, heavy, and product-laden. Trust the process and use less.
4. Not Washing Frequently Enough
The old myth that you should not wash new locs is wrong. You should be washing your locs every one to two weeks, even during the starter phase. Clean locs actually lock faster than dirty locs because natural oils and product buildup make the hair slippery. A clean scalp is a healthy scalp. Read our full guide on how to wash dreads for the proper method.
5. Ignoring Your Hair Type
4A hair and 4C hair do not behave the same way with the same products. 4C hair has the tightest coils and needs the strongest hold for starter locs. 4A hair has more defined curls that lock more easily and can use lighter products. If you are not sure about your hair type, check out our guide on how to grow and care for 4C hair.
The Cultural Significance of Locs
I would be doing this topic a disservice if I did not address the deeper context. Locs are not just a hairstyle. Across the African diaspora, locs carry spiritual, political, and cultural meaning that stretches back thousands of years. Ancient Egyptian depictions show locked hair. Maasai warriors wear locs. Rastafarian culture treats locs as a covenant with God.
In America, locs have been a statement. A refusal to conform to European beauty standards. A celebration of natural texture. And they have come with a cost. Black people have been fired, suspended from school, and denied service because of their locs. The CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) was introduced to address this directly. As of 2026, over 25 states have passed CROWN Act legislation, and a federal version continues to move through Congress.
When you start locs, you are joining a lineage. The product you put in your hair matters, but the intention behind your locs matters more. Whether you are locking for spiritual reasons, cultural pride, or because you love the look, respect the history.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best locking gel for starter locs on 4C hair?
For 4C starter locs, I recommend Taliah Waajid Lock It Up or Jamaican Mango & Lime Locking Gel (Resistant Formula). Both provide strong hold (9/10) with low residue, which is exactly what 4C coils need to stay in place during the first six months. Apply only to new growth, and use less than you think you need.
Is gel or wax better for locs?
Gel is better in almost every situation. Gel is water-soluble, meaning it rinses out during regular washing and does not accumulate inside your locs over time. Wax (especially beeswax-based products) does not dissolve in water, leading to permanent buildup that attracts lint, blocks airflow, and can cause mildew. The only exception is using a very small amount of wax on mature locs for a polished look on a special occasion, followed by a deep cleanse.
How often should I retwist my locs?
For starter locs, retwist every two to four weeks. For mature locs, every four to eight weeks is fine. Over-retwisting causes thinning at the root because you are constantly adding tension to the same area. Let your locs breathe between retwist sessions. Some frizz and new growth between retwists is normal and healthy.
Can locking gel cause buildup?
Any product can cause buildup if you use too much or do not wash frequently enough. Water-based gels are far less likely to build up than wax or petroleum-based products because they dissolve in water. To minimize buildup, apply gel only to new growth, use a dime-sized amount per loc, and wash with a residue-free shampoo every one to two weeks.
What ingredients should I avoid in locking gel?
Avoid beeswax, petroleum, mineral oil, and heavy silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone). These ingredients coat the hair, resist water, and accumulate inside locs over time. Look for water-based formulas with natural moisturizers like aloe vera, glycerin, coconut oil, or shea butter.
Do mature locs need locking gel?
Not necessarily. Mature locs (2+ years) are fully locked and hold themselves. Many people stop using gel entirely on mature locs and just palm-roll after washing. If you want a polished retwist look, a light gel like Dr. Locs Jinan Gel or a moisture-focused cream like Carol’s Daughter Loc Butter is more than enough.
How do I remove buildup from my locs?
The most effective method is an apple cider vinegar (ACV) soak. Mix one part ACV with three parts warm water, add a tablespoon of baking soda per cup, and soak your locs for 15-20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and follow with a residue-free shampoo. You will likely see discolored water, which is dissolved product and debris. Do an ACV soak every two to three months for preventive maintenance, or immediately if you notice heavy buildup.
Final Recommendations
After testing every major locking gel and talking to locticians across the country, here is the summary:
- Best overall: Jamaican Mango & Lime Locking Gel. Strong hold, low residue, proven formula, unbeatable price.
- Best for 4C starter locs: Taliah Waajid Lock It Up. Designed for the tightest coils with added moisture.
- Best clean formula: Dollylocks Tightening Gel. All-natural, strong hold, zero residue concerns.
- Best for mature locs: Dr. Locs Jinan Gel. Light, clean, sophisticated. Your locs do the work; the gel polishes.
- Best on a budget: Murray’s Gel-Loc Lock. Under $5 and it holds.
Your locs are a long-term commitment. The products you choose in the first year set the foundation for how they look and feel for years to come. Pick a gel from this list, apply it with restraint, wash regularly, and let your locs do what they do naturally.
If you are just starting your loc journey, read our complete guide on how to get dreads. Already locked up and dealing with dryness? Our guide on the best moisturizers for Black men covers products that work on locs too. And if your scalp is giving you trouble between retwists, check out our picks for the best dandruff shampoo for Black hair.
Last updated: February 2026