How to Grow 4C Hair: The Complete Men’s Guide to Length and Health

Last updated: February 2026 by Darius Washington, Black Men’s Grooming Editor

I spent three years thinking my hair did not grow. Every few months I would look in the mirror, see the same length, and convince myself that 4C hair just would not get past a certain point. I was wrong. My hair was growing half an inch every month like clockwork. The problem was that I was breaking it off just as fast. The day I figured out how to grow 4C hair was the day I stopped fighting my texture and started working with it.

This guide covers everything: the science of 4C growth, the LOC moisture method, protective styles that actually work for men, a weekly routine, product recommendations, and the mistakes that kept me stuck for years. If your goal is longer, healthier, thicker 4C hair, this is the system.

Understanding Your 4C Hair

Before you can grow your hair, you need to understand what makes 4C different from everything else on the Andre Walker hair typing scale.

The Hair Typing System: 4A vs 4B vs 4C

Type 4 hair is the coily category. Within it, there are three subtypes, and most Black men have a mix of at least two across different parts of their head.

4C is the tightest coil pattern. The curls are so tightly packed that they do not separate into visible individual coils the way 4A does. When you pull a single 4C strand and let go, it snaps back to a fraction of its stretched length. That shrinkage is not a flaw. It is a feature of extremely dense, strong hair. But it does mean you need a specific approach to keep it from breaking.

Most men who walk into my uncle’s shop in Atlanta and say they have “nappy hair that won’t grow” actually have 4C hair that is growing just fine. The issue is almost always retention, not growth rate.

Why 4C Hair Breaks (The Science)

Here is what dermatology tells us about 4C hair. Each tight bend in a coil is a stress point. Think of it like folding a piece of paper. The fold is the weakest part. 4C hair has more bends per inch than any other hair type, which means more weak points where breakage can occur.

On top of that, sebum (your scalp’s natural oil) has a harder time traveling down a tightly coiled strand than a straight one. On straight hair, gravity pulls oil from the scalp down the shaft. On 4C hair, those oils get stuck at the first few bends. The ends of your hair, the oldest and most fragile part, rarely receive any natural moisture at all.

This is why 4C hair feels dry by default. It is not damaged. It is structurally designed in a way that requires manual moisture application. Once I understood that, everything changed.

Growth Rate vs. Retention: The Real Issue

Your hair grows approximately half an inch per month. Every hair type does. The Journal of Clinical and Investigative Dermatology has confirmed this across multiple studies. There is no genetic disadvantage for 4C hair when it comes to growth speed.

The gap between 4C and other textures shows up in retention. Retention is how much of that new growth you actually keep on your head instead of losing to breakage.

A man with straight hair might retain five of his six inches of annual growth because his hair does not have constant stress points or moisture issues. A man with 4C hair who does not follow a moisture routine might only retain two or three inches because the other three break off from dryness, friction, and manipulation.

The formula is simple:

Visible length = Growth rate minus breakage

You cannot speed up growth rate significantly. Genetics set that. But you can cut breakage dramatically. That is what this guide is about.

The Moisture System: LOC and LCO Methods

Moisture is not optional for 4C hair. It is the single most important factor in retaining length. If you take nothing else from this article, take this section.

What is the LOC Method?

LOC stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream. It is a layering system designed to get water into the hair shaft and keep it there. The concept is straightforward: water hydrates, oil seals, cream locks.

Step 1: Liquid. Start with water or a water-based leave-in conditioner. Spray your hair until it is damp, not dripping. This is the actual hydration. Without water, nothing else matters.

Step 2: Oil. Apply a natural oil to seal the moisture into the hair shaft. Jojoba oil is closest to your scalp’s natural sebum. Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Scalp and Hair Strengthening Oil is my current go-to because it combines the sealing properties of an oil with rosemary, which studies have shown promotes scalp circulation. A few drops, warmed between your palms, distributed through each section.

Step 3: Cream. Finish with a heavy cream or butter that creates a physical barrier to lock everything in. SheaMoisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie or As I Am Double Butter Cream both work well for 4C textures. These are thick enough to hold moisture for two to three days.

LOC vs. LCO: Which One for You?

The LCO method swaps the order of oil and cream. You apply Liquid, then Cream, then Oil. The oil goes on last to seal the cream layer.

How do you know your porosity? Drop a clean, product-free strand of hair into a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, you have high porosity. If it floats for a while before sinking slowly, you have low porosity. If it hovers in the middle, you are medium porosity. High porosity hair absorbs and loses moisture fast, so it needs heavier sealing. Low porosity hair resists moisture absorption, so it needs products applied to open cuticles (damp, warm hair).

I have high porosity 4C hair, so LOC works better for me. Try both for a week each and see which keeps your hair softer on day three. That is your answer.

When to Moisturize

Refresh your moisture every two to three days. You do not need to do the full LOC every time. A spray bottle with water and a small amount of leave-in conditioner is enough for a mid-week refresh. Hit your hair with the spray, add a thin layer of oil, and you are good.

If your hair feels dry and crunchy by day two, your products are not heavy enough or you need to increase the cream layer. If your hair feels greasy and limp, you are using too much oil. Find the balance.

Protective Styling for Men

Protective styles are not just for women. If you are serious about growing 4C hair, you need to incorporate styles that tuck your ends away and reduce daily manipulation.

Every time you pick, comb, twist, pull, or restyle your hair, you create friction at those stress points in each coil. Protective styles minimize that contact.

Best Protective Styles for 4C Men

Two-strand twists are the gold standard for men growing 4C hair. They are easy to do yourself, look clean, tuck your ends away, and you can take them out for a twist-out whenever you want a different look. I wore twists for about eight months straight during my first serious growth phase and gained more visible length in that period than in the previous two years combined.

If your hair is still too short for twists, do not stress. Keep it moisturized, sleep with a satin or silk pillowcase, and minimize combing. You are still in the growth phase. Protective styles become an option once you have three or more inches of length.

The One Protective Style Mistake Men Make

Leaving protective styles in too long. Two weeks in cornrows is protective. Six weeks in cornrows with no moisture, no washing, and no re-twisting is neglect. Your hair mats, tangles, and breaks at the roots. Set a calendar reminder. Refresh or redo your protective style every two to four weeks maximum.

The Complete Weekly 4C Hair Growth Routine

This is the routine I follow. It takes about two hours total per week, with most of that concentrated on wash day.

Daily (5 Minutes)

• Morning: Light spritz of water and leave-in conditioner mix. Smooth edges if needed.
• Night: Apply a thin layer of oil to any exposed ends. Put on a satin bonnet, durag, or sleep on a satin pillowcase. Non-negotiable. Cotton pillowcases pull moisture from 4C hair and cause friction breakage while you sleep.

Mid-Week Refresh (15 Minutes)

• Spray hair with water until damp
• Apply a small amount of Cantu Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioner
• Seal with a few drops of oil
• Restyle twists or coils as needed (do not completely redo them; just neaten the front)

Wash Day: Once Per Week (60-90 Minutes)

Wash day is the most important day of the week for 4C hair growth. Do not rush it.

Step 1: Pre-poo (10 minutes). Apply a generous amount of coconut oil or olive oil to dry hair. This protects the hair shaft from the stripping effects of shampoo. Let it sit while you prepare everything else.

Step 2: Detangle (15 minutes). Section your hair into four to six parts with clips. Working one section at a time, apply conditioner and gently detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Start from the ends, work toward the roots. Never rip through a tangle. If a knot will not release, add more conditioner and work it apart gently. This step prevents the most breakage of your entire week.

Step 3: Shampoo (5 minutes). Use a sulfate-free shampoo. I use SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen and Restore Shampoo. Focus on your scalp, not your ends. The shampoo will cleanse the lengths as it rinses out. Scrub your scalp with your fingertips, not your nails. You are cleaning follicles and removing buildup so new growth can come in healthy.

Step 4: Deep condition (20-30 minutes). Apply a deep conditioner like TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask to each section. Put on a plastic cap or warm towel. Heat opens the hair cuticle and lets the conditioner penetrate deeper. Leave it on for at least 20 minutes. This is the step that makes 4C hair feel like a completely different texture. Skip it and everything else suffers.

Step 5: Rinse and LOC (10 minutes). Rinse the deep conditioner with cool water. Cool water closes the cuticle and seals in the moisture. While your hair is still dripping wet, apply your LOC layers. Liquid (leave-in conditioner), Oil (Mielle Rosemary Mint Oil), Cream (SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie). Work through each section.

Step 6: Style (15-20 minutes). Twist, braid, or coil your hair into your protective style. If you are wearing a twist-out, twist while wet and let air dry completely before untwisting. If you are wearing twists as your style, twist and go.

Monthly: Protein Treatment

Every four to six weeks, replace your regular deep conditioner with a protein treatment. Hydrolyzed keratin or a DIY rice water rinse strengthens the hair shaft by filling gaps in the cuticle. Do not do protein more than once a month. Over-proteinizing makes 4C hair brittle and straw-like.

Weekly Routine Summary

Total weekly time: about two hours. That is less than most men spend on their car each week.

Products That Actually Work for 4C Hair Growth

I have tried dozens of products. Most of them sit in a cabinet doing nothing. These are the ones that earned a permanent spot in my rotation.

Leave-In Conditioners

Oils

Deep Conditioners

Styling and Definition

Notice how many of these are from Black-owned brands. That is intentional. Mielle, TGIN, Carol’s Daughter, Scotch Porter, The Doux, and Cantu were all formulated with our hair texture in mind. I am not going to recommend a product designed for Type 2 wavy hair and tell you it “works for all textures.” Read the label. If it does not mention coily or tightly coiled hair, put it back.

For more options, check our complete best shampoo for Black men and best moisturizer for Black men roundups.

Common Mistakes That Kill 4C Hair Growth

I made every one of these mistakes before someone set me straight. Do not repeat my timeline.

1. Over-Manipulation

Restyling your hair every day. Constantly picking it out. Running your hands through it during the day. Every touch is friction. Every friction point is a potential break. Style your hair on wash day and leave it alone until the mid-week refresh. I know it is tempting to pick at it. Do not.

2. Dry Detangling

If you comb or brush 4C hair when it is dry, you will hear it snap. That sound is your length leaving your head. Always detangle wet, always with conditioner, always starting from the ends. If you do not have time for a full detangle, leave it alone until you do.

3. Heat Damage

A blow dryer on high heat or a flat iron without heat protectant permanently alters the protein structure of 4C coils. Once heat damage occurs, those coils will not spring back. The damaged section has to grow out and be cut off. If you must use heat, use the lowest effective setting and always apply a heat protectant first. Better yet, air dry whenever possible. I have not used direct heat on my hair in over two years and the difference in thickness and length is visible.

4. Skipping Deep Conditioning

A regular rinse-out conditioner is not enough for 4C hair. You need the extended penetration time of a deep conditioner at least once a week. Skipping it is like washing your car and never waxing it. The surface is clean, but there is no protection layer.

5. Cotton Everything

Cotton pillowcases, cotton beanies, cotton hoodies pulled over your head. Cotton absorbs moisture from your hair and creates friction. Switch to a satin or silk pillowcase. Wear a satin-lined cap or durag under any hat. This single change will reduce breakage more than any product you buy. I sleep on a satin pillowcase every night without exception.

6. Ignoring Your Scalp

Your hair grows from your scalp. If your scalp is clogged with product buildup, flaking from dryness, or irritated from harsh products, your growth will suffer. Massage your scalp for two to three minutes during every wash. This stimulates blood flow to the follicles. A healthy scalp produces healthy hair. Consider a scalp-specific oil like Mielle Rosemary Mint Oil applied directly to the scalp twice a week.

7. Expecting Straight-Hair Timelines

Shrinkage is real. Your 4C hair might be eight inches long but only show three inches of visible length because the coils compress. Do not measure progress by looking in the mirror when your hair is dry. Measure by gently stretching a section and comparing length every two months. Take photos. That is the only honest way to track 4C growth.

Scalp Health and Growth Stimulation

Everything starts at the scalp. No product applied to the hair shaft will make your hair grow faster. Growth speed is determined at the follicle level, and follicle health depends on blood circulation, nutrition, and a clean environment.

Scalp Massage

Massaging your scalp for four to five minutes daily increases blood flow to the hair follicles. A 2016 study in Eplasty showed that men who performed daily four-minute scalp massages had measurably thicker hair after 24 weeks. You do not need a special tool. Use your fingertips in small circular motions, covering your entire scalp. I do this in the shower during wash day and again before bed.

Rosemary Oil for Growth

Rosemary essential oil has clinical backing. A 2015 study published in SKINmed compared rosemary oil to minoxidil 2% and found similar efficacy for promoting hair growth over six months. Mielle Rosemary Mint Oil combines rosemary with a carrier oil blend that is safe for direct scalp application. Apply a few drops to your scalp three times per week and massage it in.

Nutrition

Your hair is made of keratin, a protein. If your diet is deficient in protein, biotin, iron, zinc, or vitamin D, your hair will grow slower and break more easily. You do not need expensive supplements. Eat enough protein (chicken, eggs, fish, legumes), get your iron and zinc from red meat or fortified cereals, and take a standard multivitamin if your diet has gaps. Biotin supplements are popular but rarely necessary if you eat a balanced diet.

Water intake matters more than most men realize. Dehydration shows up in your hair before your skin. Drink water throughout the day. Your coils will thank you.

Realistic Growth Timeline

Here is what to expect if you follow a consistent routine. These numbers assume half an inch of growth per month with good retention.

Patience is the hardest part of growing 4C hair. Month three to six is where most men quit because the hair is too long for a clean short look but too short for the styles they want. Push through that phase. Protective styles are your best friend during the awkward months.

If you are growing your hair out for an afro specifically, check out our full how to grow an afro guide for month-by-month shaping tips.

Trimming: When and Why

Trimming does not make your hair grow faster. That is a myth. What trimming does is remove split ends before they travel up the hair shaft and cause breakage higher up. Think of a split end like a crack in a windshield. If you do not address it, it spreads.

Trim your ends every 10 to 12 weeks. You only need to remove a quarter inch, just the damaged tips. If you are growing your hair out, do not skip trims entirely. The math works out in your favor: removing a quarter inch every three months means you lose one inch per year to trims but retain significantly more overall length because you eliminate breakage points.

Get your trims from a barber or stylist who understands 4C hair. A bad trim on tightly coiled hair can take off more than intended because of shrinkage. Make sure they cut on stretched or twisted hair so they can see the actual length accurately. Check our best clippers for Black men guide if you want to learn to do maintenance trims at home.

Nighttime Protection

You spend six to eight hours every night with your head on a surface. That surface either helps your growth or sabotages it. There is no neutral.

Satin or Silk Pillowcase

This is the minimum. Satin and silk create a smooth surface that your hair slides across instead of gripping. Cotton creates friction that tangles, dries, and breaks 4C coils. A satin pillowcase costs less than $15 and lasts for years. There is no excuse not to have one.

Satin Bonnet or Durag

A satin bonnet or durag adds compression on top of a smooth surface. This is the ideal setup. Put your hair in loose twists, cover with a satin bonnet, and sleep on a satin pillowcase as backup in case the bonnet comes off. If you do not like bonnets, a durag works the same way. The material matters more than the style. If you already own durags from your wave journey, those silk or satin durags work perfectly for protecting grown-out 4C hair too.

Pineapple Method

For longer hair, the pineapple method gathers your hair into a loose, high ponytail on top of your head before covering with a bonnet. This prevents the weight of your hair from creating compression tangles at the sides and back while you sleep. Use a silk or satin scrunchie, never a rubber band or tight elastic that can snap your edges.

Working Out With 4C Hair

Men who work out regularly face a specific challenge: sweat. Salt and moisture from sweat can dry out 4C hair if not managed. Here is how to handle it.

Before the gym: Pull your hair back in a loose style. A buff or sweatband keeps sweat from running into your hair. If your hair is short, a durag during workouts keeps things in place.

After the gym: Do not shampoo after every workout. That strips your moisture routine. Instead, rinse your scalp with water only, apply a light leave-in conditioner, and let it air dry. A full wash should still happen only once a week. If you feel like your scalp needs more, co-wash with conditioner only.

Do not let the hair maintenance excuse keep you out of the gym. Your health matters more than your hair day. Build a system that accommodates both.

What to Tell Your Barber When Growing Out 4C Hair

Your barber is used to cutting hair short. If you walk in and say “I’m growing it out,” some barbers will still take more off than you want because that is their default. Be specific.

Here is exactly what to say:

“I’m growing out my 4C hair for length. I just need a shape-up on the edges and a quarter-inch trim on the ends. Do not touch the top or take any length off the sides beyond the lineup.”

If your barber pushes back or suggests a fade, stand firm. This is your hair and your goal. A good barber respects the client’s vision. If your barber cannot work with a grow-out, find one who can.

For lineups and edge maintenance during your growth phase, check our types of fades guide so you know the vocabulary when communicating exactly what you want kept clean versus left alone.

Beyond Products: Lifestyle Factors

Sleep

Growth hormone peaks during deep sleep. If you are chronically sleep-deprived, your hair growth cycle is affected. Seven to eight hours minimum. Your body prioritizes vital organs over hair follicles, so if resources are scarce due to poor sleep, your hair suffers first.

Stress

Chronic stress triggers telogen effluvium, a condition where hair follicles prematurely enter the shedding phase. If you are going through a high-stress period and notice more hair falling out than usual, that is likely the cause. Manage stress however works for you. Exercise, sleep, and structure help more than supplements.

Water

Dehydration makes your hair dry and brittle from the inside out. No amount of external product can compensate for inadequate water intake. Aim for half your body weight in ounces daily. If you weigh 180 pounds, that is 90 ounces of water per day.

The Cultural Context of Growing 4C Hair

Growing out 4C hair as a Black man is a statement, whether you intend it to be or not. For decades, the expectation in corporate America, the military, and even some of our own communities was that Black men keep their hair short, faded, and “manageable.” The CROWN Act, now law in over 20 states, exists because Black people were literally being fired and expelled from schools over natural hairstyles. That law should not have been necessary, but it was.

When you decide to grow your 4C hair, you are joining a tradition that Madam C.J. Walker would recognize, that the natural hair movement of the 2000s fought for, and that every man who wore an afro in the 1970s already knew: our hair is not a problem to be solved. It is a texture to be understood and maintained.

I say this because the grow-out process can feel isolating. People will ask why you are not cutting it. Coworkers might look at you different during the awkward phase. Your own barber might question your decision. Push through. The men who grow their 4C hair successfully are the ones who decided their hair was worth the effort. It is.

For style inspiration during the process, check out our Black men beard styles guide. A well-maintained beard paired with growing hair creates a balanced look that transitions well through the awkward phases.

Frequently Asked Questions

How fast does 4C hair grow?

4C hair grows at the same rate as every other hair type: approximately half an inch per month. The reason it appears to grow slower is shrinkage. 4C coils shrink 70 to 80 percent of their actual length. A man with six inches of 4C hair might only show one to two inches when dry. Growth rate is not the issue. Retention is. A solid moisture routine and protective styling let you keep more of what your scalp produces.

What is the LOC method for 4C hair?

LOC stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream. You apply products in that order to maximize moisture retention. Start with water or a leave-in spray, follow with a natural oil to seal moisture into the shaft, then finish with a heavy cream to lock everything in. Some men prefer LCO (Liquid, Cream, Oil), which works better for low porosity hair. Test both for a week each and see which keeps your hair softer on day three.

Should I comb or brush 4C hair?

Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers. Never a fine-tooth comb or standard brush on dry hair. Detangle only when wet and saturated with conditioner. Start from the ends and work toward the roots. Dry combing 4C hair is one of the fastest ways to lose length.

Does 4C hair need protein treatments?

Yes, but balance matters. One protein treatment every four to six weeks fills gaps in the hair cuticle and reduces breakage. Too much protein makes hair stiff and brittle. If your hair snaps when stretched, it needs protein. If it feels stiff and crunchy, it needs moisture.

Can I grow 4C hair without protective styles?

You can, but you will retain significantly less length. Protective styles tuck ends away from friction and reduce daily manipulation. Incorporating twists or braids for two to three weeks at a time makes a noticeable difference in length retention over six months.

How often should I wash 4C hair?

Once a week with a sulfate-free shampoo. Washing too frequently strips natural oils that 4C coils need. Co-wash with conditioner mid-week if you sweat heavily from workouts. Focus shampoo on the scalp, not the ends.

What kills 4C hair growth?

The five biggest growth killers are dryness, over-manipulation, heat damage, cotton friction (pillowcases and hats), and neglecting scalp health. Most men who struggle with 4C growth are not growing slowly. They are breaking faster than they grow. Fix retention and length follows.

Final Word

Growing 4C hair is not complicated once you understand the system. Moisture, protection, patience. That is the formula. I spent years thinking my hair would not grow past a certain point because I was doing everything wrong: dry detangling, sleeping on cotton, skipping deep conditioner, and picking at my hair all day.

The day I committed to a real routine was the day my growth journey actually started. One year later, I had more length than the previous three years combined. Not because my hair suddenly decided to cooperate. Because I finally stopped fighting it.

Start with the weekly routine in this guide. Pick up the products that fit your budget. Switch to a satin pillowcase tonight. Do the LOC method after your next wash. These are small changes that add up to visible results within three months.

Your 4C hair already grows. Your job is to stop breaking it off. That is how you grow 4C hair.

Have questions about your specific hair type or routine? Check out our best face wash for Black men for the skincare side of grooming, or explore our patchy beard guide if you are working on growing your facial hair alongside your head hair.