How to Wash Dreads Without Ruining Them: Complete Guide

Last updated: February 2026 by Darius Washington, Black Men’s Grooming Editor

The number one myth about dreadlocks is that you should not wash them. Let me be clear: that is wrong. Learning how to wash dreads properly is the single most important maintenance skill in your loc journey. Clean locs lock faster, look better, and never develop the musty smell that gives all locs a bad reputation.

The problem is not washing. The problem is washing incorrectly. Wrong shampoo, wrong technique, wrong drying. Fix those three things and your locs will stay clean, healthy, and odor-free at every stage. This guide covers everything: how often to wash by loc stage, the exact technique, which shampoos to use and which to avoid, how to dry properly (this is where most people fail), and when to do an ACV rinse for deep cleaning.

If you are just starting your loc journey, read our complete guide on how to get dreads first, then come back here for the maintenance playbook.

Why Washing Your Locs Matters

There are two things happening inside a dreadlock. First, the hair strands are tangling and matting together to form the loc structure. Second, your scalp is doing what scalps do: producing oil, shedding dead skin cells, and collecting environmental debris.

If you do not wash your locs, that oil and debris builds up. It coats the hair strands. Coated strands are slippery. Slippery strands do not grip each other. Which means dirty hair actually locks slower than clean hair. This is the exact opposite of what most people believe.

Beyond the locking process, unwashed locs develop problems. Product buildup creates visible white residue. Scalp buildup leads to itching, flaking, and potential fungal issues. And trapped moisture from sweat or humidity, combined with the warm interior of a loc, creates ideal conditions for mildew. Mildew is the actual source of “dread stink.” Not the locs themselves. Not the method. Not your hair texture. Mildew.

Clean locs are healthy locs. That is not a suggestion. It is a biological fact. The only thing that changes across your loc journey is the technique.

How Often to Wash: Frequency by Loc Stage

Wash frequency depends on your loc stage, activity level, and scalp type. Here is the breakdown.

Adjustments Based on Lifestyle

If you work out regularly: Sweat is salt and water. It dries on your scalp and inside your locs. If you are hitting the gym three to five days a week, wash every seven days. Between washes, you can rinse with plain water and dry your scalp to remove sweat without a full wash.

If you live in a hot, humid climate: Humidity puts moisture in your locs constantly. Wash every seven days and prioritize drying. Humidity is the silent enemy of loc maintenance in the South. My barber in Atlanta says more loc problems come from Georgia summers than from bad products.

If your scalp is oily: Some men produce more sebum than others. If your scalp feels greasy by day five, wash on day seven. Do not wait until day 14. An oily scalp feeds dandruff and can lead to seborrheic dermatitis.

If your scalp is dry: Dry scalps can tolerate slightly longer intervals. Every 10 to 14 days is fine. Focus on moisturizing your scalp between washes with a lightweight oil like Jamaican Black Castor Oil. Apply directly to the scalp between the parts, not on the locs.

Choosing the Right Shampoo: Residue-Free Is Non-Negotiable

Not all shampoos are safe for locs. In fact, most are not. Regular shampoos contain ingredients that destroy loc health over time.

Why Regular Shampoo Fails Locs

Sulfates (sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate): These are aggressive cleansers that strip natural oils from your hair and scalp. While effective at cleaning, they over-dry locs and can cause the hair to become brittle. A mild sulfate in a loc-specific formula is acceptable, but the heavy sulfates in brands like Head and Shoulders or Pantene are too harsh.

Silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone): Silicones coat the hair strand in a slippery film. This film prevents the strands inside your locs from gripping each other, which slows the locking process. Silicones also build up inside the loc over time because they are not water-soluble. The buildup looks like white waxy residue.

Conditioning agents (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride): Conditioners soften the hair. Soft, slippery hair does not lock. Traditional conditioner should never touch your locs, especially during the first year.

Residue-Free Shampoo Comparison

My Recommendation

Dollylocks is the gold standard for loc shampoo. It was formulated specifically for locs, it rinses clean every time, and it does not strip your hair. I have recommended it to dozens of men and never gotten a complaint.

Dr. Bronner’s is the budget king. One bottle lasts months because you dilute it. Mix about one tablespoon of soap with a cup of water in a squeeze bottle. The peppermint variety leaves your scalp feeling alive. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly because castile soap can leave a film in hard water areas. If that happens, follow up with an ACV rinse.

If you are looking for a broader range of options that work for Black men with or without locs, our best shampoo for Black men guide covers the full landscape.

Step-by-Step: How to Wash Your Locs

This is the core technique. Follow it every wash day.

Before You Start

• Remove any hair accessories, bands, or wraps
• If you have very long locs, loosely tie them up on top of your head to prevent tangling during the initial wetting phase
• Have your residue-free shampoo, a microfiber towel, and your drying setup ready before you get in the shower

The Washing Process

1. Saturate your locs with warm water (not hot). Let the water run through your locs for two to three minutes. Hot water opens the hair cuticle too aggressively and can cause frizz. Warm water is enough to loosen dirt and oil. Tilt your head back and let the water flow from roots to tips.

2. Focus on the scalp first. Apply a small amount of shampoo directly to your scalp between the parts. Use your fingertips (not your nails) to massage the shampoo into your scalp in small circular motions. Work section by section. This is where most of the dirt, oil, and dead skin lives. Spend two to three minutes on the scalp alone.

3. Squeeze shampoo through each loc. This is the critical technique that separates proper loc washing from hair-damaging scrubbing. Take each loc (or a small group of locs) and squeeze the shampoo through it like you are wringing out a sponge. Squeeze from root to tip. The pressure pushes shampoo through the interior of the loc where buildup hides. Do not rub locs against each other. Do not scrub. Squeeze.

4. Rinse thoroughly. This step takes longer than you think. Run warm water through your locs for three to five minutes minimum. Tilt your head in different directions so water reaches every loc from multiple angles. Squeeze each loc while rinsing to push out trapped shampoo. If you feel any slippery residue when you squeeze, keep rinsing. Shampoo left inside locs is buildup waiting to happen.

5. Optional second wash. If your locs feel heavy or the rinse water looked especially dirty, repeat steps two through four. Two washes are better than one aggressive wash. The first wash breaks up the dirt. The second removes it.

6. Squeeze out excess water. After the final rinse, squeeze each loc from root to tip to remove as much water as possible. Use a microfiber towel (not terry cloth; terry cloth creates lint). Press the towel around groups of locs and squeeze gently. Do not wring or twist. Do not rub locs with the towel.

For Starter Locs (First 6 Months)

The process is the same with two modifications. First, be significantly more gentle with the squeezing. Starter locs can unravel if handled roughly, especially in the first three months. Second, consider washing with a stocking cap or hair net over your locs for the first few washes. This holds the twist or coil pattern in place while allowing water and shampoo to flow through. Remove the cap gently after drying.

Drying Your Locs: The Step Most People Get Wrong

If you only remember one thing from this article, remember this: your locs must be completely dry after every wash. Not mostly dry. Not “dry enough.” Completely dry, from surface to core.

This is not optional advice. This is the difference between healthy locs and mildew.

Why Drying Matters

A dreadlock is essentially a compressed cylinder of hair. Water gets trapped in the center. The surface may feel dry to the touch while the interior is still damp. That damp interior, surrounded by warm compressed hair, is a perfect environment for mildew and bacteria. Mildew inside a loc is the actual cause of “dread stink.” It is also extremely difficult to eliminate once established because it lives in the core where products cannot easily reach.

The thicker your locs, the longer they take to dry. Mature locs that are pencil-width or thicker can hold moisture in their core for four to eight hours. This is why drying technique becomes more important as your locs age.

Drying Methods Ranked

The Hooded Dryer Method (Recommended)

If you are serious about your locs, invest in a hooded dryer or find a salon that lets you use one after a wash. Hooded dryers distribute warm air evenly from all angles, which means the interior of your locs dries at the same rate as the exterior. Sit under the dryer for 30 to 60 minutes depending on loc thickness and density. Do the squeeze test after: squeeze a few locs firmly. If any moisture comes out, give them more time.

A bonnet-style hooded dryer for home use costs $30 to $60. For the health of your locs over years, that is a smart investment.

The Air Dry Method

If you do not have access to a dryer, air drying works, but you need to be strategic.

1. Wash in the morning, never at night. You need daylight hours for drying.
2. After towel-squeezing, leave your locs completely uncovered. No bonnet. No hat. No durag.
3. If possible, sit near a window with airflow or outside in warm weather.
4. Periodically pick up individual locs and flip them to expose different surfaces to air.
5. Do the squeeze test after four hours. If moisture remains, keep going.
6. Do not cover your locs for sleep until they pass the squeeze test.

If you wash at night and go to bed with damp locs under a bonnet, you are creating exactly the conditions that cause mildew. This is the number one mistake I see. If you must wash at night, use a blow dryer on medium heat for at least 30 minutes before bed.

Signs Your Locs Are Not Drying Properly

• A musty, sour smell that appears one to two days after washing
• A damp feeling when you squeeze the middle of a loc, even hours after washing
• White or gray discoloration inside the loc body
• Itching that gets worse after wash days rather than better

If you notice any of these, your drying routine needs to change immediately.

The ACV Rinse: Deep Cleaning Your Locs

Regular washing handles surface dirt and scalp oil. But over time, even residue-free shampoos leave trace amounts of buildup inside your locs. Hard water minerals (calcium, magnesium) accumulate. Environmental pollutants settle. If you use any styling products at all, even light ones, their residue slowly builds.

An ACV (apple cider vinegar) rinse is the deep clean that handles what regular washing cannot reach.

ACV Rinse Recipe

• 1 part raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar (with the “mother” culture visible; Bragg’s is the standard)
• 3 parts warm water
• Optional: 5-10 drops of tea tree oil for antimicrobial benefit
• Optional: 5 drops of lavender oil for scent

How to Do an ACV Rinse

1. Mix the solution in a large basin, bowl, or clean sink. You need enough to submerge all of your locs.
2. Lean forward and soak your locs in the mixture for five to 10 minutes. Gently squeeze each loc while submerged to help the solution penetrate the interior.
3. Watch the water. It will turn murky. That is residue leaving your locs. If the water gets very dark or has visible sediment, your locs needed this rinse badly.
4. Rinse thoroughly with clean warm water. The vinegar smell dissipates as your locs dry, but thorough rinsing speeds this up.
5. Follow immediately with your regular residue-free shampoo wash. The ACV loosens buildup; the shampoo removes it.
6. Dry completely using your preferred method.

How Often

Every four to six weeks for most men. Monthly if you use any styling products like Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking Gel for retwists. Every six to eight weeks if you use zero products and have soft water. You will know it is time when your locs feel heavier than usual, look dull, or have visible buildup near the roots.

What the ACV Rinse Removes

• Product buildup (gels, oils, butters)
• Hard water mineral deposits
• Environmental pollutants (dust, smoke)
• Dead skin cell accumulation
• Early-stage mildew (for mild cases)

The first time you do an ACV rinse, you may be shocked at the color of the water. Even men who wash regularly find that significant buildup has accumulated inside their locs. This is normal. The interior of a loc is hard to reach with standard washing, which is exactly why the soak method works.

Scalp Care Between Washes

Your scalp does not stop producing oil, shedding skin cells, or accumulating sweat between wash days. Here is how to keep it comfortable and healthy.

Daily Scalp Maintenance

Light oil application: A few drops of lightweight oil on your fingertips, pressed directly onto your scalp between the parts. Jamaican Black Castor Oil is my go-to because it is light enough not to build up but nourishing enough to address dryness. Apply to the scalp only, not the locs. Oil on your locs creates buildup and attracts lint.

Rosewater or witch hazel spritz: A quick spray of rosewater between the parts refreshes your scalp and provides light hydration without adding product weight. This is especially helpful in dry winter months when indoor heating saps moisture from your skin and scalp.

Mid-Week Scalp Refresh

If you are between washes and your scalp feels itchy or oily, try this quick refresh without a full wash.

1. Dampen a washcloth with warm water
2. Part your locs section by section
3. Gently wipe the scalp along the parts with the damp cloth
4. Follow with a light spritz of diluted witch hazel or tea tree spray
5. Let your scalp air dry for 15 to 20 minutes before covering

This removes surface oil and sweat without disturbing your locs or requiring a full drying session. It is a lifesaver during hot months or after gym sessions when you do not want to do a full wash. For scalp-friendly cleansing products, check our best face wash guide, which includes gentle cleansers that double as scalp refreshers.

7 Signs Your Locs Need Washing

Sometimes life gets busy and wash day gets pushed back. Here is how to know when you have waited too long.

1. Visible white flakes at the roots. This is dead skin buildup on your scalp. It is not dandruff (though it can become dandruff if left unaddressed). A wash clears it.
2. Your scalp itches consistently. Occasional itching is normal. Persistent itching that lasts through the day means oil and dead skin have accumulated beyond what your scalp tolerates.
3. Your locs feel heavier than usual. Buildup adds weight. If your locs feel dense and heavy even when dry, they are carrying accumulated product, oil, or mineral deposits.
4. Lint is more visible than normal. Dirty locs attract and hold lint more than clean locs. If you are seeing lint despite sleeping with a satin bonnet, your locs need a wash.
5. A faint smell when you squeeze a loc. Not the mildew smell (that is a bigger problem). Just a stale, lived-in scent that comes from oil and sweat accumulation. A wash fixes this immediately.
6. Your scalp looks shiny or oily between the parts. Sebum buildup on the scalp is visible as a shiny, slick appearance on the skin between loc sections.
7. It has been more than 14 days. Regardless of how your locs look or feel, two weeks is the absolute maximum between washes for most men. Your scalp health depends on regular cleansing.

Common Washing Mistakes That Damage Locs

I have seen all of these in my uncle’s shop and in online loc communities. Avoid them.

Mistake 1: Rubbing Locs Against Each Other

Scrubbing locs like you are washing a towel creates friction that causes them to merge, matt together at the surface, and develop surface fuzz. Squeeze. Do not scrub.

Mistake 2: Using Hot Water

Hot water opens the hair cuticle aggressively, causing frizz and weakening the loc structure over time. Use warm water. It is effective enough to cleanse without the damage.

Mistake 3: Skipping the Rinse

Shampoo residue inside your locs is just as bad as product residue. Rinse for longer than you think you need to. Three to five minutes minimum. If you can still feel any slipperiness when you squeeze a loc, keep rinsing.

Mistake 4: Applying Conditioner

Traditional conditioner softens and smooths hair. Both of those things work against the locking process. Never apply conditioner to your locs, especially during the first 18 months. If your locs feel dry, address it with scalp oil and an ACV rinse, not conditioner. The one exception: if you are detangling locs to remove them, conditioner is your best friend. But if you are maintaining them, keep conditioner away.

Mistake 5: Going to Bed with Damp Locs

I said it earlier and I will say it again because this is the mistake that causes the most damage. Damp locs under a bonnet at night create the warm, moist, enclosed environment that mildew needs to grow. If your locs are not dry by bedtime, sleep without a bonnet for one night. The minor friction damage from a cotton pillowcase is nothing compared to the mildew risk.

Mistake 6: Using Too Much Shampoo

More shampoo does not mean cleaner locs. It means more residue to rinse out. A quarter-sized amount is enough for your scalp. Another quarter-sized amount diluted in your hands for squeezing through your locs. If you are using half a bottle per wash, you are using too much.

Washing Locs with Scalp Conditions

Some men deal with scalp conditions that complicate loc washing. Here is how to handle the most common ones.

Dandruff / Seborrheic Dermatitis

Dandruff is more visible with locs because flakes get trapped between the parts and on the loc surface. Wash every seven days minimum. Consider alternating between your regular residue-free shampoo and a tea tree oil-based cleanser. Tea tree oil has natural antifungal properties that address the Malassezia yeast responsible for seborrheic dermatitis. If over-the-counter options do not control it within a month, see a dermatologist experienced with skin of color.

Psoriasis

Scalp psoriasis produces thick, silvery-white scales that can be mistaken for severe dandruff. Do not pick or scratch the scales. Wash gently with a tar-based or salicylic acid-based medicated shampoo as directed by your dermatologist, followed by your residue-free loc shampoo. Locs can coexist with psoriasis, but you need professional medical guidance on topical treatments.

Thinning at the Hairline

If you notice thinning along your hairline or at the edges, the issue may be traction alopecia from tight retwisting rather than a washing problem. However, aggressive scrubbing during wash day can worsen thinning. Be extra gentle around the hairline. Squeeze only. Never rub. And speak to your loctician about loosening your retwist tension. A good moisturizer applied to the edges can help maintain skin health in that area.

Dealing with Hard Water

Hard water is water with high mineral content, primarily calcium and magnesium. If you live in an area with hard water, those minerals deposit inside your locs with every wash. Over time, this creates a stiff, dull, buildup-laden feel that makes your locs look gray or chalky.

How to Tell If You Have Hard Water

• White residue around your faucets and shower head
• Soap does not lather well
• Your skin feels tight or filmy after showering
• Your locs feel stiff or look dull despite regular washing

Solutions

Shower head filter: A simple carbon or KDF shower filter ($20 to $40) removes most minerals and chlorine from your water. This is the easiest long-term fix. Replace the filter every three to six months.

More frequent ACV rinses: If you have hard water, do an ACV rinse every three to four weeks instead of every six. The acid in the vinegar dissolves mineral deposits.

Final rinse with distilled water: After your shower wash, do a final rinse with a gallon of distilled water ($1 at any grocery store). This removes mineral-laden tap water from your locs before drying.

Post-Workout Loc Care

Active men face a specific challenge: sweat. You cannot wash your locs after every gym session, and you should not need to. Here is the protocol for keeping your locs fresh between full washes.

1. Immediately after your workout: If possible, rinse your locs with plain water in the gym shower. Squeeze out the sweat. This takes two minutes and prevents salt from drying on your scalp.
2. If no shower is available: Use a damp microfiber towel to wipe your scalp between the parts. This removes surface sweat without wetting your entire head.
3. Scalp spray: A quick spritz of diluted witch hazel or tea tree spray after wiping down. This kills bacteria and prevents odor.
4. Let your locs breathe: Do not put on a hat or durag immediately after a workout. Give your scalp 20 to 30 minutes of open air.

Men who train hard should wash every seven days, no exceptions. If you are doing two-a-days or training in high heat, consider an extra scalp-focused mini-wash mid-week using the method in the scalp care section above.

Frequently Asked Questions

Keep Your Locs Clean, Keep Them Healthy

Washing your locs is not complicated. But it requires discipline and attention to a few critical details that most guides gloss over.

Here is the essential playbook:

• Wash every seven to 10 days. Clean locs lock faster, look better, and never stink.
• Use residue-free shampoo only. Dollylocks for the best results or Dr. Bronner’s for the best value.
• Squeeze, do not scrub. The squeeze technique cleans the interior of your locs without damaging the structure.
• Dry completely every time. A hooded dryer is best. Air drying works if you give it enough time. Never go to bed with damp locs.
• ACV rinse every four to six weeks. This removes the buildup that regular washing misses.
• Keep your scalp healthy between washes. Light oil on the scalp, rosewater spritz, and mid-week wipe-downs as needed.

Your locs are a long-term investment. The men with the healthiest, most impressive locs are the ones who treat wash day as a non-negotiable part of their routine. Not because they have to. Because they understand that healthy locs start with a clean scalp.

If you are still deciding on your loc method or just starting out, head to our complete guide on how to get dreads for everything you need to know about the beginning of this journey. And for the rest of your grooming routine, check our guides on beard oil, moisturizers, and clippers to keep every part of your look dialed in.