If you want to master kohl and traditional eyeliner for, this guide covers everything you need to know. Last updated: February 2026 by Karim Haddad, Levantine Grooming Expert
When my uncle returned from his Hajj pilgrimage, he brought back three things: zamzam water, dates from Medina, and a small container of ithmid kohl. The first two were for the family. The kohl was for himself. He applied it the way his grandfather had taught him, using a thin wooden stick called a mirwad, drawing it along the inner rim of each eye in a single smooth stroke. The effect was striking. His dark eyes appeared larger, brighter, and more defined, as if someone had adjusted the contrast on his face. He told me that wearing kohl was Sunnah, a practice of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him), and that it protected the eyes, sharpened vision, and promoted eyelash growth. I was fifteen and skeptical. I am older now, less skeptical, and a regular kohl user myself.
Kohl is one of the most ancient and widespread grooming practices in the Middle Eastern world, used by men across Arab, Persian, North African, and South Asian cultures for thousands of years. Yet in the West, eyeliner on men is often misunderstood, associated with rock musicians or theatrical performance rather than the deeply rooted cultural and practical tradition it actually represents. For Middle Eastern men, kohl is not makeup in the Western sense. It is a grooming practice as fundamental as beard care or fragrance, carrying cultural, religious, and (traditionally believed) medicinal significance. For expert guidance on this topic, consult Healthline’s expert men’s grooming guidance.
This guide explores the history, science, cultural context, and practical application of kohl for Middle Eastern men. Whether you are continuing a family tradition or curious about incorporating this ancient practice into your grooming routine, this is everything you need to know.
The History of Kohl: Five Thousand Years of Eye Enhancement
The use of kohl predates recorded history. Archaeological evidence of eye cosmetics has been found in burial sites dating to the predynastic period of ancient Egypt (before 3100 BCE), making kohl one of the oldest cosmetic preparations in human civilization. The practice spread throughout the ancient world, appearing independently or through cultural exchange in Mesopotamia, the Indus Valley, Arabia, and North Africa.
Ancient Egypt
The Egyptians applied kohl (known as mesdemet or kohl in various periods) made from galena (lead sulfide), malachite (copper ore), and soot mixed with animal fats or oils. Both men and women of all social classes wore kohl, and it featured prominently in religious iconography. The distinctive eye markings on Egyptian art, from the stylized eyes of Horus to the bold lines on Tutankhamun’s death mask, demonstrate the centrality of eye enhancement in Egyptian culture. The Egyptians believed kohl protected against the “evil eye,” warded off insects, and shielded the eyes from the harsh desert sun. Modern research has partially validated the sun-glare reduction claim, as the dark pigment around the eyes can reduce reflected light, similar to the eye black used by modern athletes.
Arabian Peninsula
In pre-Islamic Arabia, kohl was widely used by Bedouin men for practical protection against the intense desert sun and wind-blown sand. The practice was endorsed and continued in Islamic tradition through multiple hadith (narrations) describing the Prophet Muhammad’s use of kohl, specifically ithmid (antimony-based kohl). The most frequently cited narration states that the Prophet applied kohl in each eye three times before sleeping, recommending ithmid specifically for its purported benefits to eyesight and eyelash health.
This prophetic endorsement elevated kohl from a practical grooming habit to a Sunnah practice, encouraging its use among Muslim men across the world. To this day, many Muslim men apply kohl as an act of devotion, following the prophetic example. The practice is particularly prevalent during Ramadan, on Fridays, and during religious gatherings.
Persia and Central Asia
Persian men used kohl (sormeh in Farsi) both as a cosmetic enhancer and as a traditional medicinal preparation. Persian kohl formulations often incorporated herbal ingredients alongside the mineral base, including camphor for cooling, saffron for color, and various plant extracts believed to strengthen vision. The Mughal emperors, who blended Persian and Central Asian traditions, were depicted wearing kohl in court paintings, reinforcing its association with power, refinement, and masculinity in the Persian-influenced world.
North Africa
Across North Africa, from Morocco to Egypt, kohl use among men follows both the Islamic Sunnah tradition and pre-Islamic Berber and Amazigh customs. Berber men in the Atlas Mountains and Saharan regions have used kohl for centuries, applying it for protection against the glaring sun and blowing sand. The kohl traditions of North Africa often incorporate locally sourced ingredients, including olive oil as a binder and locally mined galena or antimony as the pigment base.
The Science Behind Kohl: Protective Properties and Health Considerations
The traditional claims about kohl’s protective and medicinal properties have been the subject of both interest and concern in the modern scientific community. Understanding the evidence allows you to make an informed decision about incorporating kohl into your grooming routine. Mastering kohl and traditional eyeliner for takes practice but delivers great results.
UV and Glare Reduction
The darkening of the skin around the eyes with kohl reduces the reflection of sunlight into the eye, potentially decreasing glare and UV exposure to the sensitive periorbital area. This mechanism is well-understood in the context of sports, where athletes use eye black (carbon-based face paint) for the same purpose. The effectiveness depends on the darkness and coverage of the application. While kohl does not replace UV-protective sunglasses, it may provide modest supplementary glare reduction in bright environments, which would have been practically significant for desert-dwelling ancestors who lacked manufactured eyewear.
Antimicrobial Properties
Some traditional kohl formulations contain ingredients with demonstrated antimicrobial properties. Galena (lead sulfide), when applied in very low concentrations, has been shown in laboratory settings to promote nitric oxide production in skin cells, which plays a role in immune defense. Antimony trisulfide (ithmid) similarly has antimicrobial characteristics. However, these effects are observed in controlled conditions, and the leap from laboratory results to practical eye health benefits in real-world application requires caution. Traditional claims about kohl preventing eye infections should be understood as anecdotal wisdom rather than clinically proven medicine.
Lead Content Concerns
The most significant health consideration with traditional kohl is lead content. Many traditional kohl formulations, particularly those based on galena, contain lead in concentrations that exceed modern safety standards. Lead is a neurotoxin, and chronic exposure through eye application can lead to elevated blood lead levels, particularly concerning for children. The US FDA, the UK Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency, and various Middle Eastern health authorities have issued warnings about lead-containing kohl products.
This does not mean all kohl is unsafe. Modern kohl products manufactured to comply with cosmetic safety standards use lead-free formulations based on carbon (lampblack), iron oxides, and other safe pigments. These products provide the same visual effect as traditional galena-based kohl without the lead exposure risk. When purchasing kohl, look for products that are explicitly labeled as lead-free and compliant with cosmetic safety regulations in your country. Avoid unmarked, unbranded kohl purchased from unregulated sources, as these are most likely to contain lead.
Ithmid (Antimony) Kohl
Ithmid, the specific type of kohl recommended in the hadith, refers to antimony trisulfide (stibnite). Antimony is a different element from lead and carries a different risk profile. While antimony compounds are not without health concerns (antimony is classified as a possible carcinogen by the IARC in some forms), the risk level is debated, and many traditional medicine practitioners consider ithmid kohl safe for occasional use by adults. If you choose to use ithmid kohl for religious reasons, source it from reputable suppliers who can verify the mineral content and apply it in moderation.
Traditional vs. Modern Kohl Products
Understanding the product landscape helps you choose a kohl that aligns with your priorities, whether those are cultural authenticity, safety, or cosmetic performance.
Traditional Kohl (Sormeh, Kajal, Ithmid)
Traditional kohl comes in powdered form, stored in a small container with a thin applicator stick (mirwad or salai). The powder is typically mineral-based (galena, antimony, or a combination) and may include additional traditional ingredients like camphor, olive oil, or herb extracts. The application requires some skill: the mirwad is dipped into the powder, rolled to coat evenly, and then drawn along the inner rim of the eye (the waterline) in a single smooth stroke.
Traditional kohl provides a softer, more natural-looking line than modern pencil eyeliner. The powder settles into the waterline and lash base, creating a smoky, defined look that enhances the natural eye shape without the harsh precision of a drawn line. This soft, blended appearance is the authentic kohl aesthetic and looks distinctly different from Western eyeliner application. Quality traditional kohl from reputable Middle Eastern brands provides this authentic look while adhering to safety standards.
Modern Kohl Pencils and Liners
Modern kohl pencils are essentially soft eyeliner pencils formulated to be gentle enough for waterline application. They use carbon black, iron oxides, and other cosmetic-grade pigments in a wax or oil base. These products are widely available, lead-free, and easy to apply, making them an accessible option for men who want the visual effect of kohl without the learning curve of traditional powder application.
The trade-off is that pencil kohl produces a slightly different effect than powder. The line tends to be more defined and less smoky, and it may not blend as naturally into the lash line. For a more traditional look with a pencil product, smudge the line immediately after application using a cotton swab or your finger to soften the edges.
Gel and Liquid Kohl
Gel and liquid kohl formulations offer the strongest color payoff and the longest wear time. They are applied with a thin brush or felt-tip applicator and set to a semi-permanent finish that resists smudging and transfer. These products are the best choice for events or occasions where you need kohl to last all day without fading. However, they are less forgiving of application errors and produce a more “made-up” look that may not align with the subtle, traditional kohl aesthetic some men prefer.
How to Apply Kohl Correctly
Proper kohl application creates a natural, eye-enhancing effect. Improper application creates an obvious, uneven mess. Here is the technique for both traditional and modern kohl products. Understanding kohl and traditional eyeliner for is key to a great grooming routine.
Traditional Powder Kohl Application
Step one: Clean the mirwad (applicator stick) with a clean cloth to remove any residue from previous applications. Step two: Dip the mirwad into the kohl powder and rotate it gently to coat the stick evenly on all sides. Tap off any excess powder; you want a thin, even coating, not clumps. Step three: Close one eye. Place the coated mirwad against the inner corner of the closed eye, positioning it along the inner rim of the lower eyelid (the waterline). Step four: In a single smooth motion, draw the mirwad from the inner corner to the outer corner, letting the eyelid gently press against the stick as you pull it through. The eyelid’s natural pressure distributes the powder along the waterline. Step five: Open the eye and blink several times to settle the kohl into the lash line. Step six: Repeat on the other eye. The process takes less than a minute with practice.
For upper waterline application (tightlining), tilt your head back slightly, look down, and gently lift the upper eyelid. Draw the mirwad along the upper waterline from inner to outer corner. This technique is more challenging and optional; many men apply kohl to the lower waterline only.
Modern Pencil Kohl Application
Step one: Ensure the pencil tip is sharp enough for precision but not so sharp that it pokes the delicate waterline. A slightly rounded tip is ideal. Step two: Gently pull the lower eyelid down to expose the waterline. Step three: Starting from the inner corner, draw the pencil along the waterline to the outer corner in short, overlapping strokes. Do not try to do it in one continuous line unless you are experienced; short strokes give you more control. Step four: Release the eyelid and blink to blend the line. Step five: Use a cotton swab to clean up any stray pigment on the skin below the eye. Step six: Repeat on the other eye.
Application Tips for a Natural, Masculine Look
Less is more. The goal is to define the eyes, not to create a dramatic, theatrical line. A thin application along the waterline is sufficient. You should not be able to see a distinct “line” from conversational distance; instead, the kohl should make the eyes appear slightly darker, larger, and more defined, as though the effect is natural.
Apply to both eyes evenly. Asymmetric application is the most common mistake and creates an unbalanced, noticeable appearance. Check in a mirror after application and adjust as needed.
Start with lower waterline only. Upper waterline application (tightlining) adds more intensity and is optional. Many men achieve the desired subtle effect with lower waterline application alone.
Which Occasions Call for Kohl
The appropriateness of kohl varies by cultural context, setting, and personal comfort level. Here is a practical guide to when kohl is traditionally and socially expected, accepted, or best saved for private use.
Religious Occasions
Kohl is universally accepted and encouraged in religious contexts across the Muslim world. Friday prayers, Eid celebrations, Ramadan, Hajj, and other religious gatherings are traditional occasions for kohl application. In these settings, kohl carries the additional significance of following prophetic Sunnah, and wearing it is seen as an act of devotion rather than a cosmetic choice.
Weddings and Celebrations
Middle Eastern weddings, engagement parties, and formal celebrations are occasions where kohl is commonly worn by men. The enhanced eye definition adds to the overall groomed appearance expected at these events, and kohl complements the formal attire (thobe, suit, or traditional regional dress) typically worn.
Daily Wear
In the Gulf states, North Africa, and parts of South Asia, daily kohl use by men is unremarkable and carries no social stigma. In the Levant and Iran, daily use is less common but accepted within culturally aware communities. In Western contexts, daily kohl use may draw attention, though the growing acceptance of male grooming and cosmetics is reducing this. If you are in a Western environment and want to wear kohl daily, a very subtle application that enhances without being obviously visible is the most natural approach.
Professional Settings
In Middle Eastern professional environments, subtle kohl use is generally accepted and even expected in some contexts. In Western professional environments, the acceptability depends on the industry and workplace culture. Creative industries, fashion, and media tend to be more accepting. Conservative corporate environments may view visible kohl as unusual. A very light application that is barely perceptible at arm’s length is the safest approach for any professional setting where you are uncertain.
Cultural Variations in Kohl Use
Arab Kohl Traditions
Across the Arab world, kohl use is tied to both Islamic practice and pre-Islamic cultural heritage. Gulf Arab men tend to use kohl more frequently and visibly than Levantine men, reflecting the Gulf culture’s greater emphasis on traditional grooming practices. Bedouin communities throughout the Arabian Peninsula maintain kohl as a daily practice, connecting to the nomadic tradition of sun and sand protection. Urban Arab men may reserve kohl for religious occasions and celebrations, applying it subtly as part of their overall groomed presentation. When it comes to kohl and traditional eyeliner for, technique matters most.
Persian Kohl (Sormeh) Traditions
Iranian men’s kohl use is influenced by both Islamic Sunnah and pre-Islamic Persian aesthetics. The Persian term “sormeh” refers specifically to the antimony-based kohl preparation, and sormeh application is associated with both religious observance and cultural refinement. In Persian poetry and literature, well-kohled eyes are praised as a mark of beauty and expression in both men and women, and the tradition of sormeh application carries literary and romantic associations that other kohl traditions may not emphasize as strongly.
North African Kohl Traditions
North African kohl traditions blend Islamic practice with indigenous Berber, Tuareg, and Amazigh customs. The Tuareg men of the Sahara are perhaps the most visible male kohl users globally, wearing distinctive dark kohl as part of their cultural identity alongside the iconic indigo tagelmust (turban-veil). For Tuareg men, kohl is simultaneously sun protection, cultural marker, and aesthetic choice. Across the Maghreb, kohl is sold in souks alongside other traditional grooming and beauty products, and its use by men is culturally normalized to a degree that may surprise Western observers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is wearing kohl considered masculine in Middle Eastern culture?
Yes. In Middle Eastern cultural context, kohl on men is associated with masculinity, religious devotion, and cultural identity. Warriors, scholars, merchants, and prophets have worn kohl throughout Middle Eastern history. The Western association of eye cosmetics with femininity does not apply in the Middle Eastern framework, where grooming practices like kohl, fragrance, and meticulous personal care are considered essential aspects of masculine self-presentation.
Is traditional kohl safe to use?
Traditional kohl from unverified sources may contain lead, which poses health risks with regular use. To use kohl safely, choose products that are explicitly labeled lead-free and comply with cosmetic safety standards in your country. Modern formulations using carbon black and iron oxides provide the same visual effect without lead exposure. If you specifically want traditional ithmid kohl for religious reasons, source it from reputable suppliers who test for contaminants and use it in moderation.
Does kohl really improve eyesight?
The traditional claim that kohl improves or protects eyesight is not supported by modern clinical evidence. Some ingredients in traditional kohl formulations (like antimony compounds) may have mild antimicrobial properties, and the darkening effect around the eyes can reduce glare in bright environments. However, there is no scientific evidence that kohl application strengthens vision, promotes eyelash growth, or provides meaningful medical benefits to the eyes. These claims should be understood as traditional beliefs rather than medical facts.
How do I remove kohl at the end of the day?
Water-based micellar water on a cotton pad is the gentlest and most effective removal method. Hold the damp pad against the closed eye for five seconds to dissolve the pigment, then gently wipe away. For waterproof or gel kohl formulations, an oil-based eye makeup remover dissolves the product more effectively. Avoid rubbing the eye area aggressively, as the skin around the eyes is the thinnest on the face and prone to damage from rough handling.
Can I wear kohl if I wear contact lenses?
You can, but with caution. Waterline application of kohl can deposit pigment particles on the lens surface, causing blurred vision and potential eye irritation. If you wear contacts, apply kohl to the outer lash line rather than the waterline, or apply kohl before inserting your lenses and wait several minutes for the pigment to settle before putting lenses in. Use soft, smudge-proof formulations that are less likely to migrate onto the lens. If you experience persistent irritation, discontinue waterline application while wearing contacts.
Conclusion: Honoring an Ancient Practice
Kohl is not a trend. It is a tradition that stretches back five thousand years, across dozens of cultures, and through every era of Middle Eastern history. For men who wear it, kohl is an expression of cultural identity, religious practice, practical function, and personal aesthetics, all in a single thin line of dark pigment.
Whether you apply ithmid before Friday prayers following the prophetic Sunnah, or you reach for a modern lead-free pencil before a special occasion, you are participating in one of humanity’s oldest grooming practices. The men who built Persepolis wore kohl. The men who sailed Arabian dhows wore kohl. The men who wrote the great poetry of Arabic and Persian literature wore kohl. In continuing this practice, you carry forward a piece of living history that connects you to every generation that came before.
Apply it with care, choose your products wisely, and wear it with the confidence of a man who knows that in his culture, this is not unusual. This is tradition.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it true that kohl and traditional eyeliner for men has health benefits for the eyes?
According to Middle Eastern tradition, kohl is believed to protect the eyes, sharpen vision, and promote eyelash growth. While these benefits are traditionally valued, you should consult with a healthcare professional if you have specific eye health concerns before regular use.
What is the difference between kohl and Western eyeliner?
Kohl is a deeply rooted cultural and grooming practice in Middle Eastern cultures that dates back thousands of years, whereas Western eyeliner is often associated with makeup or theatrical use. For Middle Eastern men, kohl functions as a fundamental grooming practice similar to beard care or fragrance, not as cosmetic makeup.
How do you apply kohl properly using a mirwad?
You apply kohl using a thin wooden stick called a mirwad by drawing it along the inner rim of each eye in a single smooth stroke, as taught through generations. The technique creates a striking effect that makes your eyes appear larger, brighter, and more defined.
Is wearing kohl considered part of Islamic practice?
Yes, kohl is regarded as Sunnah, a practice of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him), which gives it significant religious and cultural importance in Islam. This connection to Islamic tradition makes kohl a meaningful grooming practice for many Muslim men beyond its aesthetic benefits.